While the design house Satya Paul became younger, thanks to Masana, the house of Masaba matured. The collection Masaba sent down the literally clouded runway on first day of Lakme Fashion week, saw the designer at probably her very best. Titled ‘Postcards of Benaras’ the collection, as Masaba explains it, was “…an ode to the widows of Benaras. It is interesting and I saw that no one has picked up this idea before. My collection had predominantly white in it.” With Parineeti as the perfect embodying showstopper, Masaba’s collection, for me, was definitely a hit. This 24 year old young gun has managed, at a very young age, what many established designers dream of i.e. maintaining the signature aesthetics of the two different lines they are designing for two different fashion houses.
As expected, Masaba came out on trumps with her prints. The ingenius table stand fan, which was my fav, for me sort of signified the lonely wait while the tulips and roses in black and white seemed to metaphor the once long gone happiness in a widows life. There was also prints of silhouettes of people. Maybe I am reading too much between the lines, but hey! don’t blame me, art is open to interpretation. Using an inanimate object like the fan, she turned it around into a fun print. Not using a solid color, except for in the people print, the rest of the prints were in shades of grey, unlike her previous outing. She definitely stepped up her game, telling everyone she means business. The prints were combined and in some cases layered with floral appliqued sheer fabrics.
Black and white with accent and pops of color, Masaba totally worked it. Channelling her usual high end bohemian, gypsy vibe with an added dash of quirk, Masaba’s seperates were a definitely a go-t0 this season. Unlike playing with the print, like she did in Satya Paul, she let the print be and played with the silhouette creating a sort of marriage between the two. The collection consisted of printed dresses, jackets with embroidered culottes, high slit skirts, dhoti pants, and saris with net cover-ups among others. A kudos for her to involving Sari as a resort wear with the printed and plain sarees combined with sheer printed and plain coverups, giving it all a contemporary resort look. She worked with the silhouettes and let print deliberately take its natural course, yet controlling her look of the garment. The result was anything but boring.
Finishing off with the gold jewellery, I was glad that she had not used any Benarsi fabric, but rather used Benarasi vintage jewellery to show the shiny effect. Thats how its inspired! designers are you listening. Using this jewellery created off a jarring effects of sorts, which was balanced quirky and fun. Am sure many women would be going through their mother’s treasures after this show.
My picks… well though I was unhappy since Masaba does some fun Menswear too, there were definitely many looks that were my favorite. The border printed sari worn with printed sheer top, Masaba takes on the sheer and print on print trend together. The tulip print wrap dress with a sheer longer overlay. The high waisted coral pants paired with a fitted top. The jacket worn by Parineeti was an absoulte steal, while another tulip printed ensemble, channelling a fifties vibe with its top, had just the right amout of exposed midriff. The figurine overlay paired with a coral and white sari was an absolute delight. On the other hand completed with gold cuff and rose print, a thigh high slit skirt displayed a perfect diva moment on the runway. The print on print trend saw another fun ensemble. A fan print shirt dress with a longer floral appliqued jacket was the perfect look to hit the beach in. Annother fan printed shirt paired up with plain black pants, showcased how business can be mixed with fun.
*Images from stylemeindia.com