Ayesha Hasan’s outing titled ZILIJ, bore such uncanny similiarities to Sania Maskatiya’s Dilkash and Nida Azwer’s Foliage collection that it was hard to look past it. However, ignoring the fact, Ayesha Hasan’s collection was pretty decent to say the least. Zilij seemed to aim at taking inspiration from morocco and its tile art and to some extent it did succeed through its prints. The collection would have been much more fun had it not been so ‘inspired’
The color palette moved from deep greens, rust oranges, browns, beiges, teals, offwhites, pinks and blacks. The luxury pret collection relied heavily on sensitive handling of print (read similar to SM) and used fabrics like chiffons, georgettes and silks. The silhouettes ranged from easy tops, pants, loose sack tops, cropped pants, boleros and flared dresses.
One of the problems that seemed to be in this collection was the fittings (again). the length of the pants were too long, the cropped pants were too tight, the palazzo pants were too big for the models. What resulted in was sloppy presentation at some occassions. The designer needed to either call in the models or should have had the looks tested on them a day before. Looks like the fashion industry now needs is the process of castings for their shows (but that cant happen since we dont have much models to go around). However the collection was perfectly styled with side braids, tikas and foot accessories.
My picks from this were A marori worked overcoat over a teal jumpsuit, Orange print pants worn by Ayyan. Thought they were too long for her, I liked the print. The black and white top with those yellow self printed pants (though those red pockets just had to go) , and the foot accessory worn by this model who was wearing a brown dress. (the last four pictures above)
AHSAN NAZIR. The PIFD grad from Lahore made his debut at the FPW this year. Ahsan Nazir’s collection had GLOBAL REMIX as his inspiration. As described by him the collection was ‘this signals a new generation of fashion that is influenced by global issues ,the look is very individual and so each piece is selected for its own merit , materiality is intermingled , a medley , a sophisticated jumble , contemporary emporium , a cheerful melange , print and embroidery layered up with embellishment to create a contemporary bazaar.’
Taking on the trend of sheer and layering, Nazir’s collection aimed at creating a harmony amongst mix n match. The colors were sharp hues including that of teal, pinks, oranges, blues and reds. The silhouettes ranged from saris, panelled shirts, long flowy tops, pants and tops. Menswear mostly included just the right length of the pants that i seem to like paired with multi chevrons waistcoats and scarves. He used a melange of fabrics ranging from chiffons, silks and cottons. One of the prints (the multi colored boxes) also reminded me of FARAH LEGHARI’s lawn print.
Ahsan Nazir’s menswear hit more homeruns than his womenswear. His womenswear seemed dated with all those longer hemlines and flaring out tops. The multitude of colors in such silhouettes did not help the cause much either and resulted in sort of a mashed up gola ganda that did not go down well with the fashion audience. Though it showed potential but left a lot to be desired in terms of garments. My picks from this collection had to be the colored pants and the multi colored chevrons waistcoats that he showcased for men.
*Images Courtesy Kashif Rashid