The Oh-so-white collection by Arsalan and Yahseer was deeply rooted in the Kashmiri craft of embroidery. Now being a designer myself and experiencing the embroidery technique myself, I know from experience, the amount of time it takes for this specific technique to be done. Another experimentation on their part, Arsalan and Yahseer leaped from their leather collection to the Kashmiri craft. While the ladies had loads of eye candies to drool at (yes the models were flown in from lahore), the clothes too were not half bad either.
Having a preview of one of the pieces on Zurain earlier on day one, the collection mostly comprised of stark whites (which could have been changed) to occassional accents of colors. Giving them credit that they are a hard working duo, the collection presented had quite a few hits and misses. While possibly another one who paid attention to their finishings, Arsalan and Yahseer’s collection, was almost perfectly done. From Lathas, suitings and cottons, AnY’s latest outing seemed to be much more cohesive. While there were some blonde moments (pun totally intended) the collection was pretty decent. The collection mainly comprised of jackets, waistcoats, bandhgala waistcoats, kurta and shalwars all accented with color and embroidery against a white canvas. Some of the trousers were nicely fitted and thus I have no complaints on that front.
However there were two jackets, which for me, were not quite on the mark. While the pale blue and purple one with colored embroidery had all sorts of wrong going on for it. The tones of the colors and the shades just did not sit well with the pattern and embroidery that was meant to be in the limelight in the collection. The pastel shades are difficult to handle and balance and thus this one could have been avoided. The other blue jacket worn by Muhammad seemed more like made from the fabric rather than the fabric and embroidery done according to the jacket’s silhouette. This resulted in all sorts of odd yellow highlights at different places. Yes there was an effort to continue those pale yellow diagonal lines, however somehow it did not gel well. It actually even pains my heart to point it out since being a designer myself, its one of my favorite embroidery techniques. Having said that, the collection was pretty much in cohesion and sight for sore eyes compared to the some that came in after this collection.
While I had a problem with the tone of white that the brand used, I found a few jackets quite fetching too. There was an embroidered sleeve jacket that was just right up my alley, the turquoise jacket was the one that had me all drooling all over it. The quilted jacket was just the right amount of twist to the classic. While I also liked the patch work waiscoat as well as a double collared waistcoat too was interesting. Also the fact that the peshawari chappals (I read somewhere what they are called but it has slipped my mind for the moment) will be retailed at their stores and the collection was available the next day in their stores after the showing, goes on to show how efficient the design house has become in terms of retailing. Verdict: More hits than misses.
*Image Courtesy Kashif Rasheed