Sania Maskatiya’s collection AGHAAZ was all that what she does best. The juxtaposition of prints, cut a pretty presentation on the first day of PSFW. Inspired by motifs of 19th century Persian, Middle Eastern, Hispanic and Italian Renaissance ceramics and tiles, the collection was a mix of hand and digital prints on the garments. Sania was back for me and no surprises that I liked this presentation of hers compared to the Karachi one.
Using a variety of fabrics such as raw silks, crepes, chiffons, and charmuese, she included embroidery as well as printing in her garments. Displaying high end luxury to the hilt, Sania’s outing was chic, impressive and interestingly done. Presenting a variety of seperates, there were different lengths of tunics and within one too (and yes she took the hemlines up), printed jumpsuits, cropped pants and palazzos. The colors ranged from just the right tone of pastels of greens, oranges, yellows, teals to beiges and indigoes. The prints however were in vibrant hues complimenting the colors she used. If there is one woman who can make women wear serpents, drangons and birds all entangled and cleverly woven into motifs combining them with her recent love for geometry, its definitely her.
Sania knows her mind and knows how much she wants to push the commercial envelope. Being a designer myself in the ready to wear business, I am aware of the limitations and commercial boundaries that restrict the product, but then again, a balance needs to struck which Sania has pretty much aced. People have come to know what to expect from her. I would definitely like her to foray into edgy-ness with her aesthetics to see what she comes up with. One slight hiccup I had were these two very sharp color toned garments which neither accented nor gelled into the collection (one of them worn by Kiran Chaudhry).
My picks from the night, the grey top with an almost perfect pair of cropped pants, the kolhapuris were a perfect touch. Those Indigo pants had me drooling (need to get an indigo tone for myself) , the asymmetric top , the bloused back long tunic had an interesting jewel print on one panel and the ‘Egyptian-ness’ of the top cinched at the waist worn by Cybil got into my good books.