MK NATION by Karma
Maheen Kardar presented her sub brand’s MK Nation’s collection in the High Street segment on last day of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. Her Ode to Lahore included fun prints and embroideries. Taking inspiration from her city, Maheen Kardar’s collection comprised of kurtas, loose and shorter tunics, capris, bloused tops and jumpsuits. The motif vocab ranged from minar e pakistan, noor jehan to vintage telephone and phulkari motifs. The most popular one had to be the Imran Khan kurta that she showed, right on the verge of elections. While I was on the fence about some of the longer shirts, a couple of straight tunics with their length seemed bit off when paired with palazzos. I totally loved the fact that she accessorized her garments with the jhola/snake bags. A very nice and cute collection overall but wished there was an effort to push the silhouette while staying in the parameters of high street. My picks were the khussa print, the navy blue jumpsuit, the oversized red top paired with black and white polka dotted pants and the dark green top.
Coco by Zara Shahjahan presented second during the High street shows. Basing her collection in cottons for summers, Zara’s collection had floral embroidery in almost every garment that walked down the runway, showing off her affinity towards the floral patterns that formed her inspiration. Straighter and shorter tunics ruled her shows with basic white lowers except for two floral printed ones. Interesting silhouettes and variations of a shirt were seen apart from the dolmen sleeves and overlapped tunics. Furthermore vents within some tunics were an interesting added feature easing the movement. Working that color block in her design, it was however her whites that made much more of an impact than her colors. The reason lied in the pastel almost washed out tone of the color that she used, that became her undoing. Also as a designer one needs to take care of how the embroidery or embellishment falls on the body. I had two major moments where the behind of the models was literally framed and highlighted due to the effect. Had some very good potential sellers.
Kesariya, after its lawn show at PFDC (which I skipped), showed off their pret line in the high street segment of the Fashion Week. Playing upon three distinct inspirations, Kesariya showed a sort of teaser, what can be expected in their stores almost every week. The three capsule collections were made in cotton lawn, cotton swiss, cotton karandi and chiffon silk. While with their Virsa line, the brand took on the major trend that one has seen through the week, truckart. Fusing it with oriental influences, we get kimono inspired tops, Japanese sleeves and straighter shirts with truck art prints. While there was a slight hiccup (even Kesariya could not escape the curse of ending-on-crotch embroidery), the dramatic piece, which my guess is was for runway only with voluminous sleeves, though a bit costumey, showed how they know how to have fun with fashion. The Riwayat line played on with the cultures of subcontinent featuring in a multitude of colors. The silhouettes were flared and loose tunics for everyday wear. The Kontemporary segment played upon with blacks, whites and grey with colored accents. Chic silhouettes and a couple of Op-art print tops, worked brilliantly. Loved the black and white square top with a butterfly hidden in the pattern was one of my fav from this collection. While not seamless, the three lines made for a pretty presentation. Waleed Zaman, as usual, rocked colored pants, this time a two colored trouser on the runway (MAJOR ENVY, more than the collection he should produce these pants and have them at their leisure club store)
WORKING WOMEN by Adnan Pardesy
Chic, fun and wearable are the words that come to one’s mind when describing the WORKING WOMAN by Adnan Pardesy’s collection. Also an offshoot of Bareeze (first being Kesariya), the collection titled INCLINED, definitely checked all boxes for the working women. Displaying his signatures of structures and fabric manipulations (in limited doses), the collection comprised of solid colored tunics that were hip, trendy and on the mark for the working women of Pakistan. Hoping to be in stores, the simple yet practical designs showed that he had fun designing for this collection. Flared with with asymmetrical hemlines , straight as well as draped tunics along with a couple of jumpsuits that were presented during the show. The pleating detail and neat presentation helped the collection shine through. Accessorized by various office gear and bags, the collection scored points by the working women, who ever I showed the collection.
*Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly