Hours after Sabyasachi’s collection’s pictures were released, me and a fellow blogger, Amara, and Sabyasachi fans, were drooling over every couture piece that walked down the runway on the first day of PCJ Delhi Couture week. Aptly titled OPIUM, it was pretty much the fashion indulgence that I had been waiting for a while.
Set against the backdrop of an interior of a Haveli, The shrubs, plants, pots and chandeliers along with sinks, vintage mirrors and wallpaper, Sabyasachi, like his last show, paid meticulous attention to detail to the setting of the presentation that he made. Details such as empty glass bottles against ornate mirror frames added to the old world charm of the designer’s 1920′s inspired collection. While last year, he was the finale designer, this time around he opened the fashion week. Though for me the order in the couture show does not matter as such coz seeing Sabyasachi’s show, it could well be passed off as finale too.
Possibly his most glam collection to date in terms of sparkles and sequins, it was all glitz and glam all out the Sabya way. Sabyasachi kept his palette muted and neutral leading a very vintage chime to the collection. The Interweaving of thread embroidery with sequins, added a certain extra dimension to the clothes. While embellishments included hand embroidery of ari, tari and tara, overlapping gold sequence work, known as ‘kachra’ work, applique, zardosi, tilla work and old fashioned crewel embroidery, Fabrics ranged from khaadi, tulle, loads of lace as well as prints.
The silhouettes ranged from bandhgalas, sherwanis, short tops, garaaras, flapper jackets, flapper coats, duster coats, peplum tops, mughal coats, to kurtas, lehengas and variation of sarees. What I liked about this collection also was he didn’t restrict himself to the eastern silhouettes and in giving that variety, reminded me of the early sabyasachi silhouettes that I fell in love with. A special like to the head to toe print looks for men and a brown sherwani paired with a print pajama and that embroidered shawl was brilliant
The designer also used vintage jewellery from a jeweller in Hyderabad. There were personal pieces, old antique pieces, and a lot of collectibles from the 1800-1900s.
The makeup was done by Mickey Contractor consisting of nude tones and lips and smoky eyes.
For all those people who exclaimed.’its all bling’ well to quote Sabyasachi, ‘Bling sells and I’d be stupid not to sell it’ , the problem usually that comes with the bling factor is it tends to cross the lines of being garish and tacky. It is however upto the designer how to go about it according to their design aesthetic and Sabyasachi does the brilliant act of balancing it all out perfectly with his white, nude and blush tones with the perfect kick of shimmer along. Picking out one would be not fair or to quote Amara.’ I could just live in Sabyasachi’s pieces’ I couldn’t agree more.
Images courtesy: Stylemeindia, makeupandbeauty.com, viral bhayani and Sabyasachi’s facebook page
P.S. I will be reviewing those shows only that caught my attention (for good or bad)