Mythical, edgy and unorthodox, Gaurav Gupta’s couture collection light-struck had some really good moments with some stumbles along the way. Titled Lightfall, the collection truly embodied the essence of its theme through its brighter moments. Blazing the ramp, the collection was a study in restraint edgy.
This collection is a metaphorical expression of the way nerves and veins seep in and connect to the root in any living organism. There is hardly any phenomenon more couture and more evolved than the way light permeates into life and flows till the very tips of a being (sic). With this concept, Gaurav Gupta set his runway with abstract installation of what seemed like a growth of strings of light sprouting up on the runway. Luminescence is what lied behind every garment of this collection – it is the light’s involvement in the process of creation that fascinated him for this story.
The collection focused a on slender silhouettes in the form of gowns and derivatives of the sari and lehenga. From sheer layers to embellished surfaces, the garments were striking as they walked down the runway. part from twists on the traditional silhouettes, the collection also featured jackets. Though I did feel, the oversized volumnous pieces stood out for all the wrong reasons and could have been avoided for a much more chic collection. Colours ranged in the families of black, gold, white and teal to corals and flaming oranges and pastels. Fabrics used were loads of soft mesh, satin, georgette and lace.
What is intriguing is how he created such a futuristic collection while keeping the essence of it traditional. There was a thorough juxtaposition of ancient Indian embroidery techniques and material like saadi, pitta, zari, nakshee and multi-dimensional surface ornamentation on organza and while the lace flowers with drapes added an extra dimensions to the garments giving it a certain edge. While he definitely knew where and how he needed his garments to be and proved it true that its how u use certain something that matters rather than the nature of itself. The futuristic collection at points did remind me of its existence being in a post-apocalyptic world like that of Hunger Games. Loved the steampunky accessories from dangling and oversized ear cuffs to lace flowers and head coverings, he knew exactly where to stop and did not over do it, in order to let them compliment the garment rather than outshine it, since such edgy collection required a certain minimal restraint in terms of accessories.
As a blogger said poetically about the collection ‘In essence, this collection is about mystical, mythological characters being looked at from a window of a thousand years from now. It dwells in a space where there is a sense of abandon toward time itself and the only thread connecting the extreme vintage to the ultra future, is light.’
KALKI KOECHLIN walked as a showstopper for him in an embellished gold gown with mesh trail