Ali Xeeshan’s Ironically titled collection Jalal(grandeur) reverberated around the theme of spirituality with a twist. Inspired by the oriental royal workers and Buddhist monks, the collection was not without the OTT drama that is associated with Ali Xeeshan. Also punctuated in the clothes were oriental images, specifically of the crane, in forms of embroidery. With the oriental headgear styling he rounded off his ensembles.
Borrowing the color palette from his theme, it was predominantly in orange and yellow with insertions of navy, whites and greens acting as contrasts. The silhouettes were heavy on drapes that were at times tied with obis and were worked with many fabricated techniques from quilting to pleating. The kimono inspiration was very evident and to his credit he definitely brought that forward. The little bouts of embroidery in the crane and cloud motifs were pretty and were just enough. Some motifs also reminded me of pagodas of thailand (predominantly buddhist inspiration) in their shape and form. While there were many a relaxed separates, paired with some constructed drapes and forms balancing it all out in the process. What I like about him that he is No hold barred approach with his construction while trying to maintain that balance. Strip it off all the drama and you will find interesting wearable separates to work with.
Presentation of the collection strangely had bollywood Jumma Chumma Music. While a rain song with an instrumental would have been effective and in sync with the theme, this is Ali Xeeshan we are talking about who does love to shock and shock he did. While many a pieces did work (loved the quilted obi done in origami detail and first yellow piece with white pants) there were a few that did not quite hit the right note( The last four in the section below). The tone of that green wasn’t really appealing and combining it with that poppy orange…not too sure about that. The white with orange pleated outfit had pleats going in all direction and seemed like a bit on a confused edge. Also that embroidered blue top with white hot pants would have worked hadn’t it not be for the georgetty orange and yellow cape. While he had some really good yellows, this one is particular seemed to be an off shade not working with the navy. Also the baggy silhouette is ash white with yellow sleeve and crane embroidery did not gel well with the collection and seemed like a variation of a draped burqa.
However I did like some of the pieces from the collection. The cat eye pointed jackets were an absolute favorite of mine. Also the white jumpsuit for men with an obi was quite the eye catcher and interesting. The minimum styling with just the oxfords sealed the deal for me. Also I loved this pair of high waisted harem pants with cropped cat-eye pointed sleeve top ewith the embroidery, so orientally chic.
*Images courtesy Tapu Javeri and his team