When two major creatives collaborate, expectations are bound to sky rocket. Coming back to Libas after quite a while, Mohsin is now much more mature compared to last time he was working with the brand. With Mohsin’s edgy aesthetic and Sehr’s pretty-ness, to be honest I was skeptical as to how the marriage would be, but I wasn’t disappointed. The ‘Crystal Macaroon’ was a very Parisian inspired collection where one could definitely identify elements by Sehr and Mohsin.
The collection with its pastel color palette, had a dream like effect with the play of sheers and light weight fabrics incorporated into the ensembles. The peaches, powder blues, punctuated with tangy oranges and neons to break up the monotony, all the sheer layering presented a pretty picture. The luxury pret collection with an almost self on self embroidery and crystals kept it at bay from bogging down the outfits. Many of the streamlined silhouettes worked because of the different textures in layering of the fabrics. Also at points, Mohsin combined straighter lines with organic embroidered vines and motifs with some great effect.
Furthermore what I also noted was the use of piping, to accentuate along the plain fabric giving definition to those sheer uppers and planer sheer sleeves. Also using the same trims he crafted jackets and sleeves. It is very easy to get carried away with this Valentino technique (Valentino created a whole dress out of it twisting and turning it into patterns, but then again that’s him) but to his credit, Mohsin keeps a sound control over it without overdoing it. I would TOTALLY wear that invisible jacket. He presented easy silhouettes with some defining and some illusion structure with tuncis, high low hem shirts, tapered and flared pants. A very good showing for Mohsin. The thing about Mohsin is he is down to earth and will make no two bones about the criticism he would receive, instead would just take all of it in his stride. He knows his stuff and will improve upon it paving his way as how he deems it right without alienating his design aesthetic.
The crystal embellished shoes could have resulted in a business collab of sorts (discussed by Aamna Haider Isani on her blog here) . Much has been said about it all being the Chanel-ness of it on the runway on the runway and I too at times felt that. Strip that off from the collection and there were much more things to be seen too but at times those sneakers worked with the outfits giving them a quirky twist.I just wasn’t too keen on two pieces, one being an embroidered halter bodice paired with neon and the crystal tassled top with those flared pants did not work with the sneakers.
What did I like… The button down with a sheer embroidered layere in handkerchief hem, the invisible jacket, the peach kimono with just the hint of powder pastel blue layered collar, the double textured trim sleeved shirt, the white on white striped pants. Special mention to the extra ruffled top with embellished pants (hahaha it was called the satanic creation of sorts in a satire).
*Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly … and me