When a veteran designer like Iman Ahmed is presenting, you actually sit up and pay attention. Showcasing after quite a while, this was one show that was worth the entire wait… Using deconstruction as one of the major design elements her collection was fiesty and chic.
‘Sartorial Philology and Deconstruction’ made heavy use of Middle Eastern themes and styling. The collection with its sombre but sharp color palatte had inclusion of just a single- or maybe two- reds as just enough accents. The silhouettes were laid back, but slick rather than going frumpy. They were chic and ranged from dresses, jumpsuits, a variety of length of jackets (from military crop to draped and sheer long straighter looks), separates, skirts and floor length ensembles. What Iman did was weave everything through in a collection without getting it all overwhelming. Many of the draped pieces moved beautifully along while walking…surely Imaan had the focus to actually see how the piece would move with the walk. Iman, as a strong independant woman, did not shy away from making social comments either through her presentation with both head covered pieces, the inclusion of a bullet belt was pure genius. It was a strong satirical comment of sorts, on the perceived stereotypes in the west towards the mid eastern region. I once saw a cartoon satire of something similar going on about fashion in the region and women clad in burqas with some exposed limbs with ammunition attached to it… and I was like wish someone did something like that and lo and behold!! She did it and with such subtlety sending down femme fatales on the runway.
The prints were another major highlight of the presentation. Using ample amount of references, one could definitely see the resource material come through with Iman using them deftly in straighter silhouettes as well as not shying away from draping and distorting them in her ensembles. From navigation maps to suzani references to Moroccan tiles, the woman pretty much puts them all together deftly in her prints. Also careful attention was paid to the presentation. Iman sent out one piece at a time, in a slow walk presentation and let the audience soak it up before the next one.
The only hiccup I had, was about this draped top with this skirt with fabric flowers wasn’t quite appealing. Many people did not get the collection and pretty much swooped over their logic..for example calling it ‘glorified beach wear’ … was completely uncalled for.. not that I am defending the collection against their opinion..it’s a free world, if one likes something, other doesn’t have to.. but seeing it as that…like really!! beachwear!! Still gotten me confused as to how and why did they see it as what they did.
What i loved… the printed world map jacket… so much so I wish Iman did menswear >.< *sigh*… the draped skirt moved beautifully with its pattern, the opening black and white piece, the red jumpsuit was fun and the military jacket with those rustic bronzy gold detailing was gooood. Loved the bullet belts!!
*Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly…and me