We all have seen luxury prêt venture out into a much more ‘western’ silhouette territory more so often… with a certain minimal aesthetic. However never in a million years we have thought of going the desi route because of the bling bling and God those aunties in weddings with their overdone ensembles in colors only a mother could like. Maheen Kardar, dares to go down that route, albeit with a much better aesthetics, closing Day 3 at the Fashion Week with desi bang.
Kayseria wasn’t the only one to pick up a Rajasthani theme. Going with a Rajasthani look, Karma Pink went for a desi vibe for this summer with the best playlist of the night that got me all grooving to bollywood tracks. Thank God designers are realizing the potential for cotton based fabric for luxury prêt…a thing that Sabyasachi has been advocating for a while. Ideal for summers the collection majorly comprised of ensembles in printed cottons with good measure of chiffons thrown in at occasions where needed. With the vibrant hues done right (Gul Ahmed are you taking notes!!) she used complementing tones of blues, purples, reds, yellows, pinks, greens, blacks, oranges, whites (i would love to write the local names but many wouldn’t understand). These were paired brilliantly with each other to present upbeat combos for the ensembles.
Native motifs and patterns like indigenous peacock, parrot and elephants combined with florals were used for the collection. These were hand embroidered and embellished using gota and kamdaani work, phulkari and mirror work and sequin embellishments, Maheen went down the traditional roots of embroidery with her collection. Also thrown in were some bandhani chunri prints that were reflective of the region as well as the running prints with small floral and paan motifs. The unapologetic use of bling embellishment was with a certain desi aesthetic control. All of these were combined in silhouettes that took inspiration from the region and many of them were traditionally presented however she did take the liberty of introducing many contemporary silhouettes with surface treatments weaving them in the collection. From Ghagra, cholis to bikini tops, to jodhpurs, palazzos and jumpsuits. Also straighter and longer to shorter and bloused tunics also made their appearance. The collection that was a go-to for dressy wedding evenings in summer while needing to beat the heat. The presentation came with its bit of drama with models swinging to the beats of hot bollywood numbers channeling the desi Diva.
However the while everything was fun but at many a points it felt like something we aren’t alien to all of this and have seen it at many occasions. The traditional placements of motifs and embroideries were not something we haven’t see before. Many of the silhouettes felt quite safe, but then again keeping the retail in mind that needed to be done.. but i did wish for some experimental and unexpected silhouettes combined with that surface treatement.
The embroideries were very pretty.. The bandhani print jumpsuit paired with that handworked chiffon flared upper. The pan print jumpsuit, multi patch sleeve tunic, the light blue and dark blue combo.. Also I loved the cotton buti prints esp the men’s kurtas…. Maheen when are they coming in store.