The bollywood designer as he is often proclaimed to be Manish Malhotra’s presentation at the couture week revolved around in his safe zone with his signature silhouettes. The collection primarily in shades of golds, concluded in the bring Punjaabi red with gold work on it. While the embroideries were worth the second look, the ones on reds failed to strike that chic cord and came across as much more of an attempt to go traditional but not quite reaching there. A fun feature in womenswear was the use of jackets and sherwanis with the extra over flared ghararas and skirt. However we have seen the designer pair the two previously too with a tailored top and a flared bottom therefore was hardly a surprise. His menswear, barring the finale one, was much more rich in tones and treatement and the dhaka and aligarhi pajamas cut to perfection (that is no mean feat). One of the ensembles, a tweed like texture with blue sleeves definitely caught my eye for all the right reasons but overall, the presentation lacked the require punch and was too predictable even for the designer
At the other end of the spectrum, the namesake Manish (Arora) presented a collection that like his aesthetic was full of character and personality. His woman is fierce and with that personality is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Manish is known to give Indian elements unsual twist and this time too with his off site offering did exactly that. With psychedelic prints, bright colors, he showcased why is he the internationally acclaimed designer that he is. Multicolour stripes, gold rexine embroideries, and 3D highlighted on bases of bright colour were some of the highlight of this psychedelic collection. Applique, zari, peacock textures and traditional embroideries were given flour scent treatments over constant colored bases. He paid his ode to Japanese aristocracy with the craft of Temari which is reserved only for it. Highlighting the techniques, each garment was distinguished by a special colour ranging from emerald green and fuchsia, to red and electric blue, with accents of pearls and gold embroidery. In a variety of silhouettes, I did get an Ali Xeeshan deja vu feeling, but again Japanese elements are bound to ring a bell if the source of inspiration is same. One might feel with such busy-ness of his designs, the presentation felt a bit gimmicky, but then again, if you see the whole thing in context of separates, you’d see the limitless options and that is where the designer scores points.
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