With their sporty minimal chic approach, and use of techno fabrics Huemn has always led me to draw parallels with one of my other favoirte working with a similar approach, Alexander Wang. Huemn this presentation too revolved around a sporty chic vibe and needless to say I was not at all disappointed. Loved the screaming guy printed shirt and the sheer panelled oversized tops. They carried on the circular seams and shapes from their last season successfully in this one. With hardly any color, the collection was predominantly monotone with hints of detail. Misra and Shetty delivered a comfortably luxe collection, with sporty influences, cheeky text details (The quilted DONT TRY) and anti-fit trend at its best. While one of the ensembles was particularly interesting with knit and neoprene with bangled shapes in sleeves. Also it takes guts to send down a horizontally striped power suit down the runway. Loved them all
From exaggerated drapes to the the minimalist luxe collection, Nupur Kanoi has come a long way and was one of the major surprises this fashion season. Using crushed silk for a luxe collection of sporty feel, Kanoi’s minimalist approach is to be seen to be believed. I for one was pleasantly surprised. Not alienating her textile roots, but moving into a much more modern context, Kanoi made a sparkling splash on the runway. Her silhouettes ranged from relaxed shifts, laid back floorlengths and some eastern looks (she isn’t ready to let them go off just yet). However it was her sport influenced silhouettes that made the most impact with a minimal approach. Who would’ve thought using crushed silk with sporty outlook. The two don’t blend, but Kanoi does it expertly. Hooded tops, slinky dresses and shifts marked her foray into a territory that I am most excited about what she would do next.
Combining florals and sport is a very tricky terrain one that IKAI fails to conquer with their latest presentation. The brand’s ensemble left me in a bit of a confusing position coz while I liked certain elements of almost each ensemble, the collection as a whole felt lacking in terms of packing a punch and cohesion. With a bit of tie and dye thrown in, the collection though restrained, felt like a bit of wanting to do quite a bit with a minimal theme. While the anti-fit and sporty details were hard to miss, the layers were interesting bits and I particularly liked the two ensembles (last shot). There was something really off about the whole grey bomber with the brown floral appliqués and geometric details and did not come together with the shirt and the shorts. While I loved another one of the leather appliquéd bolero jackets, how it was put together did not make for a good picture. Loved the bourges through and through though.
With a lot of holding hands print in tow (pun intended), ILK totally sported a look that was chic with enough drama without going overboard. The collection was a perfect example of the variations one could use the print in within different scales. Keeping the overall look earthy and relaxed there were a few body cons accenting the collection, keeping it from being boring. The vibe was chic and the prints brought a rustic appeal to the chic silhouettes lending it a bit of bohemian vibe. However the brand knew how to exercise control. The unusual combo of sporty details with such earthen print worked in the favour of the collection primarily because of the controlled color palette that oscillated within shades of blues. Loved the offshoulder ensemble, the boxy tunic with print gone large scale and overlapped top with printed skirt.
*Image credits: The LFW Team