Set against the backdrop of Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, a seperate event apart from the fashion week took place with major players making an appearance and encouraging the new guns. The Maybelline Newyork Millenial Fashion show was an attempt to introduce new designers (wish there were new stylists and makeup artists too collaborating with the designers for looks but.. baby steps) into the industry. The winner to be decided by the present audience’s voting would score a slot at next season’s Fashion Week.
With a collection titled Royal Soccer (why would you name your collection that, inclusion of gold doesn’t make it royal), but to his credit he succeeded in presenting a collection lined with sportswear references, honeycomb patterns and a spurts of potential to develop this capsule into a possible feature collection. While his gold outings may not have been a success, the monochromatic pieces pretty much hit a homerun, esp the printed pants. Her on point winter layering was one to watch out for especially the jackets and some fun pants. One thing I wasn’t too sure of that if you were doing all structured sporty pieces, why is there a sari to tag along or even a draped ensemble in black. The collection though at points did gave me a DEV R NIL meets HUEMMN deja vu feeling. This one has so much potential but needed some major step-back editing and changes but he had some of my favorite references that he worked with. A designer definitely to look out for .
Playing up the vintage references, Nitasha presented a collection that was pretty, easy on the eyes and wearable. The collection had some pretty lacey details (gotcha!) that worked up in favor of the designer. Her creme palette with some darker toned gradations were interesting and she managed to insert modern elements within her vintage inspired collection easily to score brownie points. Be it the peplum, the different lengths of the skirts and silhouettes, all were within a similar vein making it a much more conclusive presentation. Her use of hints of prints, pearly details and embroidery, all were an ode to British era and Anglo culture. While I personally would have liked some experimentation and a rather punchier collection, since the silhouettes were on the safer side.
The only menswear capsule to showcase at the show, the collection by Sameer Sain had him working with denim and combining it with jute…two very opposing materials, one organic, other processed along with some metallic detailing, Sameer Sain’s collection attempted to merge the two. The unusual choice of color of denim (that certain shade of blue) was commendable along with darker hues that are a classic. Though he did present the usual silhouettes (lets just face it, no one is gonna buy experimental menswear in Pakistan), I liked the fact that he did present a jumpsuit, one that I would not mind in my closet. His cargo details along with zippers were interestingly done and controlled without going overboard. Some very neat finishings *slow applause* . Not sure about the butt jute patch though! need ed to check that out bud.. I liked the styling, the smeared facepaint was just enough to pull it together for the rugged look. MAJOR brownie points for the shoes, especially those floral boots (if you are making them, where do I order), fun two toned espadrilles and woven sneakers.
Hadn’t Abel showed earlier this year at the Rising talent at FPW? I wonder how did the people not see that while shortlisting people. As far as the Scarlet poison collection goes,I did not see any interpretions of scarlet letter or adulterous affair.. seemed more like goth queen gone miss Havisham. The part ascot and part vintage evening wear collection seemed a mix of strange OTT in presentation with high low dress, a sari, an oddly proportionate gown and seperates…all also with some serious bling too on the clothes. The inconsistency in the vibe of the garments was off putting, but some of the prints derived from hebew calligraphy do deserve a mention. Its just that the heavy headed ness (all puns intended) of the collection and execution did not do justice to prints that could have been done up brilliantly. Where’s that Scarlet letter now??
Hitting it out the ball park with her debut capsule, Madiha Raza’s attention to detail was remarkable. With her collection ‘Flights of a bird’, couldn’t be more proud since she was a fellow graduate, and my senior at school and to quote Khizra Munir, we felt the ‘Shameless glee’ and rightfully so. Madiha basically killed it through her collection. Layers, sheer, laser cutwork all featured in her work that I usually attribute to her. Belting it out masterfully with digital prints to be paired with these, her debut outing was as firm footed as a seasoned designer. Jackets, sheer saris over printed full skirts, laid back structured silhouettes and her use of fun materials including felt and leatherite made her pretty much the frontrunner of this show (man! I wanted some fun competition as a viewer). The collection was punchy and though I wasn’t too sure about two of the ensembles (red tunic and the blue cross over scarf with grey jumpsuit) , the rest were pretty much a knockout. Her attention to detail be in terms of makeup (the brows and lashes) or the textured and layered bags and shoes or the bag within a clear bag, the looks were well thought and planned and executed for that futuristic bohemian woman.
A special shoutout to Latitude CRS for starting and ending the event at a decent hour and running things smoothly
**Images courtesy Tapu Javeri and Kashif Rashid