Ethereal Romance – Michael Lo Sordo
The ethereal collection presented by Michael Lo Sordo could best be described as the subtle romance of epic proportions at best. Draped as well as structured, his dresses were of overblown proportion. But for the designer, the genius lied in the details. The micro pleating playing off against solid ensembles brilliantly provided that romantic edge to the garments that sashayed down the runway. The clothes demanded a second look, a more detailed and visceral one that made one appreciate the details of garments that were bold in aesthetic but demure in demeanor. This contrasting element is really hard to nail, one that Mr. Lo Sordo does so effortlessly. The volume of the garments was toned down with the use of pleating that was so brilliantly done that some one like me could just pretty much stare and appreciate the fine art of it. A certain sense of calm and breezy romance prevails throughout the collection even when seen in pictures and makes up for more than the number of pieces that were shown. My favorites had to be the plunging neckline V neck dress in RED, the strapless voluminous floorlength number.
Glam Chic – Ginger & Smart
For someone who had seen this whole collection being made while I was interning at the design house, it was quite charming to see the looks coming together and styled to perfection in what I usually termed at the ‘GnS-chic’ . Playing upon their strengths, the collection was right up the duo’s alley for the smart chic and confident look and design philosophy that the brand is associated with (the reasons I went there 🙂 ). The silhouettes were smart, tailored, sophisticated and streamlined. From the white suit to dresses to crop tops to separates, it is that tailored aesthetic with a strong outlook without losing sight of the femininity of the modern woman, Ginger and Smart’s collection hit quite a many home runs during its presentation (the fact I was pretty confident about even when it was being made).. Apart from their design philosophy which resonates personally with my aesthetics what I really liked from this collection was the range that they presented. They played with a variety of prints, layers for summers, a multitude of fabrics… hell they even made feathers work for summers to their advantage within separates combining them with sleeker pieces (who would’ve thought that!! ). The GnS woman is a smart sassy powerful woman who knows her stuff and makes heads turn. My personal favorite was the ‘smashed mirror’ fabric especially in metallic that they set of brilliantly within different silhouettes and pieces. Bravo!
Quite the tease – Haryono Setiadi
Setiadi has been on my radar from quite a while especially because of his use of prints. As an appreciator of his work, Setiadi is pretty much a tease when it comes his use of prints. He teases a bit and some more with his prints. While this collection was no different with regards to prints, the collection focused more of fabric treatments and use of different fabrics compared to usual bursts of prints. Another thing worth noting was that while the prints did echo a bit of Japanese aesthetic, Setiadi has moved away from the earthy deconstructed look that is synonymous with Japanese aesthetic to a polished tailored and streamlined look. The color palatte was mostly pastel blues n whites graduating into blacks. While the white based prints were my absolute favorites, the blazer paired with a mesh skirt was the perfect sophistication encountered. The horse shoe hand cuff shaped necklaces were an absolute love n reminded me of margeila’s hardware accessories that I adored.
Futuristic Elegance -Toni Maticevski
The first time Toni Maticevski was introduced to me was when Sonam Kapoor and Priyanka Chopra donned this australian designer for red carpet. Since then, he has been the one I have watching quite a while. His ‘australian’ approach towards a very dior-esque silhouette is intriguing. While he brings more than that to the table, the drama of volume with structural details is what the man excels at. With a keen eye for proportion (which were pitch perfect), the control of drape was tackled with such technical precision to form shapes that have nostalgic qualities but with modern twist. Organic distortions within these familiar silhouettes showed off the designer’s strength at tailored drape and construction. Mesh and Neoprene are his best friends, one that he manipulates effortlessly along with bursts of gold during collection added to the drama. A sci fi quality combined with shapes of the past, it was to his credit that combined these odd concepts so effortlessly since they would appear so wrong on paper. If Star wars setting were to have a fashionable love story, Maticevski would be the man they should go to. While the clothes were strong in their demeanor the presentation with its feminine vibe helped to tone that down. The Gold separates were my absolute favorites (those pants were #pantgoals) as well as oversized cowled contoured grey dress.
Rebel’s Romance -Jayson Brunsdon
With love in the air, petals on the runway a parisian flower market vibe to the whole show, Jayson Brundson’s show was a romantic ode to love and loving one self. Feminine dainty and romantic silhouettes in hues of rose balanced with neutrals sashayed down the runway. However Brundson made sure that the love isn’t without its dark romantic edge with metallics and dark lace overlays featuring at occasions with dramatic bows and oversized collars within the presentation. Tulle skirts, fitted knee length coats in floral brocades and lace worn over long silk organza skirts presented an air of modern nostalgia. While dresses with brogues gave it all a certain defined individualism. The chic modern day lady womenswear was punctuated with the brand’s debut hand at menswear and I freaking loved the the menswear. The black metallic jacket, the french lace shirt and especially the off centre flower shirt that was fun and cheeky, were an absolute favorite of the lot. Woven seamlessly the menswear and womenswear complemented each other bringing the collection together as a whole with elements occurring in both, commented on the gender neutrality. Romantic, chic and RED Hot (all puns intended 😉 )
Commercially viable and wearable were the words one could use to describe Alice McCall’s collection. Nothing like what we haven’t seen before from the brand which has been going strong commercially, Alice McCall presented a range that would appeal to quite a few age groups. Familiar silhouettes, different treatments…however what is commendable is that the brand has its pulse on the audience that has grown by folds in the last year alone. While many may think that they are confined by such constraints and pressures, one would be surprised to see that even within that, how far do they manage to produce an expansive range that includes flounced, ruffled playsuits, mini dresses, jackets, long line pencil skirts, blazers, slim cut trousers and crop tops. The use of brocades in rusts and gun metal for architectural tops, dresses and esp that mini suit in gun metal was a masterstroke. Furthermore what was impressive was the ability to incorporate knits within a collection and to do it rather well for a brand within that sort of commerce. That red double slashed perforated knit for summers was just so good ( those who don’t understand the technicals would probably won’t be able to appreciate the making behind it).
One of the young , probably the youngest one at the fashion week, what designer Khim Hang lacks in age, he makes it up for more in his passion and his dedication towards his craft. Combining creative forces with style blogger Margaret Zhang (who styled his show), Han’s show was one of those creative deconstructedly polished ones, the kind of aesthetic that I aspire and enjoy. The shibori like prints, the layered looks, the barefoot and sock styling was on point. The constructed wrap around layered looks with crossing over into half print-half solid shirts made for a rather interesting vieweing. The relaxed tailoring, the print graduation and the slouched aesthetic within tunics, jackets, loose and streamlined pants, knee length jackets, printed pants (loved them) and separates. The menswear and womenswear were pretty much interchangeable with an androgynous thread running through the whole collection in a color palette of greys, olives, neutrals, blacks, whites and deep blues. Zhang’s layering of the 140-piece collection was not only was economical, but showed the eager crowd a fresh take on runway looks. Simpler shapes letting the tailoring and construction take centrestage and with a killer styling, it was indeed one cohesive and a complete presentation (a satisfaction which is very hard to nail). An understated presentation with lots packing quite the punch, I would probably wear almost everything if I had my way.
We Are Handsome
While my expertise does not lie in milieu of sportswear so would rather be unable to comment on the technicalities of it, it was rather interesting to see sportswear move into the print territory. The floral prints were a departure from what we have usually come to experience of sportswear even in terms of print which is usually referenced to speed and movement. An off site presentation at a tennis court made for the perfect setting for such a collection.
*Images belong to their respective owners