Day 2 saw another slew of designers putting forth a show for the evening. Of these only two came up trumps by staying true to their aesthetics. While we saw many bridals, a couple of brands also showcased pret a porter for the wedding season giving the much needed break from the usual desi wedding options.
While people who have seen Wardha Saleem’s work go through a roller coaster ride from brilliant to safe, but one thing is for sure that she never lets go off her quirky self, and knowing her I wouldn’t want her to. She pushed envelopes and stamps the usual with her own signature and this collection was no different. People are aware of her pret clientele but she also has a loyal bridal one was well and with a swanky new studio, more accessible. While many do draw parallels between her and Manish Arora, she does tend to sing her own tune which is not crazy as him but quirky enough… The collection was an assortment of contemporary and traditional shapes with some fun and interesting ones making to the forefront…like the dhoti drape inspired pants. The full circle skirt ghararas and cholis also made an appearance but with the usual Wardha kitschy-ness and that sari with embellished scallop was just perfect. While a couple of fittings did go off and some ensembles did go over the top, but for the most part overall the collection presented the riot of colors that the designer is known for spilling over within bridals brilliantly with some very interesting color combos.
Maheen Karim’s cat women may not be fierce but provided a much needed respite from all the bridals. Her luxe line, though boasted of silk prints, could not avoid the bling, however some tastefully done…in others..the silhouettes were really oddly propotional. A mini skirt with a strange back tied top, a gown reminding me of dior’s J.law bedsheet golden globe gown, the twist gown that we all have seen Donna Karan make a million times…were not really the high points of Ms. Karim’s collection. She did manage to score high on the opening number jumpsuit with black on black bling, the cape and as well as that paper bag waist skirt. More lows, less highs.
Pretty much in the same line as Tena Durrani, Obaid Sheikh’s collection was the usual that would have its certain clientele and would perfect for those wanting to opt for the usual safe route. Why fix something if it ain’t broke. However a major thing… what is with designers this season wanting to botch up the perfectly resolved pattern for Jodhpur pants…it is one of those classics that is to be tampered with carefully, don’t do it if you can’t pull it off.
Elan with their first show within the city, avoided falling into the trap of ‘bridals’ restricting it to the trunk shows and orders. The pret o porter collection was high on prints and slick on silhouettes. Sticking to what it does best, floral was the order of the day for the brand that showcased separates, dresses and even a floral powersuit. While the prints were not novel, there were hints of geniuses in the details. The spread out beading on one of the jackets representing the crackling effect was dainty and harsh at the same time, the black and white dress with a botanical drape was pretty much on fleek, the gold pants and black on black separates would be an instant hit when they hit the stores. What was meh was the last outfit with the crown… I mean what was that!!! and why was that? Should have ended it on the voluminous ball gown. You don’t need to show all pieces if they don’t fit the collection or just to complete the number of outfits.
My sources tell me that Nida Azwer’s collection had things falling off it. For someone known for her bridals amongst modern brides, this was pretty much a shocker considering it is that what she does sell quite a bit. While in maintaining her pretty aesthetic, things did go out of hand within the ensembles with an OTT of lace, cutwork, embroidery and embellishments all thrown into one big conundrum resulting in pretty much a slouched hot mess. While there were a few and far moments like embroidered pants, the bird tunic, the golden yellow culottes paired with the perfect silver to downplay it, cutout jacket and jumpsuit and a grey shalwar, these were just a few. The bad fitting paired with that certain fabric did not do Ms. Azwer any favors and resulted in quite the mess.
While FnkAsia’s collection oscillated between a very desi outlook to a sophisticated urban latina, it was a mixed bag collection from the fashion house. While the kurta tunics with embroideries, the baggy shapeless ensemble on the showstopper, and the banarsi skirts were not the brightest moments within the collection presented a very hardcore desi-ness of the collection. However, the jumpsuit, the jackets (long and cropped) scored some major highs for the label. I just LOVED The blue crop embroidered crop top with brocade pants. It was chic, urban, polished, infused with fnkasia’s signature yet polished with a sense of no nonsense…I could almost visualize a parisian high street look with that top.
Deepak Perwani’s collection was the last of the night and was strictly ok to say the least. The floral motifs, the nymph like styling for some wasn’t really the experimentation he is known for .Except for a kimono wrap with white pants, which made for a rather very chic look, the whole collection seemed like a confused wild child bohemian wanting to go chic but can’t. The collection, that was largely commercial, worked better in separates, than in overall looks. Many pieces did not look like they belonged together, while others did. Some sharper lines went against the whole vibe of the collection while the colors just hopped from pastels to sharper jewel tones, at the drop of a hat. The finale number, a bandhgala menswear jacket with yellow chrome embroidery did catch my eye and was one of the more interesting pieces of the collection. Sadly by that time you are not too invested in the collection anymore.
*Images courtesy Tapu Javeri