I know I know I am late on this one, but better late than never right!! LIFE does get in the way and did I mention, I graduated and officially a Masters (you probably know that if you follow me on instagram 😛 )
While not averse to the idea of two fashion weeks, a full fledged and succinct fashion week with 5 days for all designers over the country would make much more sense, but I will not get into the politics of fashion, all I’ll say is that it is the case over all the world so Pakistan fashion industry going through it is no anomaly. The Fashion Pakistan Week that took place in Karachi showcased a multitude of designers showcasing their collections. From them, here are my picks:
Sonay Battla showcased her penchant for couture details that were executed flawlessly within pret silhouettes. Bringing that to a much more ready to wear arena, Battla’s white collection was fun presenting her strengths as a designer. From pret and flirty silhouettes graduating to sculptural pieces, the collection showed a range that could be deconstructed to separates with details to die for. From skirts to dresses to floor lengths, the collection is not for everyone since people will question its ‘werability’ but for something that has as much as artistic value as much as commercial one, it is sometimes overwhelming to see past the flawlessly executed finer details that Battla thrust under the limelight to have their moment, by keeping the color palette uniform. The well constructed garments were a testament why Battla is such a reveled designer and why can she execute concepts and ideas with such perfection and a contemporary brushstroke.
With this collection Generation succeeded where most of the veterans failed to impress – the contemporary take on the pakistani clothing. Going the bohemian route, the collection was pretty much a statement of why this high street brand is as good as any designer wear because of its approach to womenswear. The wanderlust approach to the collection worked brilliantly in favor of the brand. The relaxed tunics, the different lengths, the layers and the different shapes of shalwar pants all with a multitude of whimsical prints and pastel tones accented tones punchy ones. Sort of a master class in desi bohemian.
When you are designing for a handbag brand for a while, and you are a good designer, you know what works. That is precisely what Wardha Saleem does with Jafferjees. With the latest outing while she showcased her strength as a designer, it did not fall far from the fact that her clothes had to be complimentary to the bags the brand is known for and she scores. With gentlemanly prints, sharply cut suits and relaxed silhouettes, the clothes were luxe and on point with the bags. The whole feel of harking back to brit era with a modern twist came across seamlessly. The highlight had to be the gentleman printed sherwani. What’s more is that they would be available at her studio.
Going the basic and not so basic route, Zaheer called on his, what now seems to be his favorite color, for this collection – white. The resort looks, handkerchief hems, different lengths, and separates were relaxed for anyone heading out to the tropics to escape heat this summer. Like always, Zaheer knows the value of well constructed garment and while we did want something more from the designer, the decision to take a sort of breather with the color palette comes across as a natural choice at the heels of his high street and menswear line .
It is just left to wonder how does she do it all. Wardha Saleem knocked it straight out the ball park with a collection that was probably the best one of the fashion week. Wardha showcased an extension of her London capsule collection that I just loved. The floral tones set perfectly against black in the probably the unusual way, her collection was chic smart and full of surprises. Combining traditional techniques of ralli to contemporary digital prints, Wardha merged the two worlds so seamlessly that it goes unnoticed (and yes that is a good thing). With a color palette that is much restrained from her usual one, Wardha’s controlled her eclectic aesthetic ( I loved her early collections) in a mature fashion which shows how much has she evolved as a designer by keeping the nature of her aesthetics alive but exploring into new avenues. My favorite piece had to be the long quilted jacket… was just perfect. What was more eye catching was the hand painted handbags that pretty much stole the whole show. These were just so awesome that you need to zoom in to appreciate the expertly painted details by the craftsmen.
Amir Adnan can single handedly be credited for a modern outlook to Pakistani menswear. While he is known for his much loved by masses traditional look, this presentation showed that the maverick hasn’t lost his pulse on the modern day man. With drop crotch pants, high hems, short kurtas, relaxed silhouettes, prints, layers and earthy tones, Amir Adnan hits the nail bang on with his fun collection. Though not much piratey, the collection for the modern guy when deconstructed rested on the familial separates treated in a contemporary fashion. A very good viewing
Maheen Khan’s Gulabo is not hard to believe is under her veteran wings that know how to oscillate between classic, contemporary and kistch. She is not referred to as Chanel of Asia for no reason. Gulabo continues to derive inspiration from the eclectic city of Karachi. What was fun was it presented menswear and womenswear within same showing. I for one loved the prints and those drop crotch shalwar pants went straight up on my lust list – they were just styled perfectly with structured tops. The overall print jumpsuit in similar relaxed silhouette, esp the red one, was definitely on the road to revolutionize the Karachi fashion scene where I would like to see a woman walk down the road without attracting unwanted attention. From playing up with sheer, solid and voluminous elements, the brand presented a collection steeped in a palette where everyone expected them to go all out color explosion. The Kheri footwear was the perfect finish.
Sanam Chaudhri: for her fun prints
Zainab Chottani: for attempting denim
Aamna Aqeel: for the love of stripes