The third day brought in quite a bit of color within the fashion week and the vibrant kind we associate with resort. From chic monochromes to girly patterns to some very cool conceptual and organic collections, Day 3 saw quite the variety and range of outfits on the runway…
The morning of third day, the harbour bridge and Opera House provided the perfect setting and time for Manning Cartell’s off site presentation. The designer opting for a cheery color palette for the resort collection presented a layered yet breezy collection that surely set the very relaxed chic mood for the collection. The same colored separates, jackets paired with slinky dresses and printed uppers, one shoulder and easy shrugs in geometric prints were the highlights of the collection. From mustard yellows, reds to beiges, whites and powder blue, Manning Cartell presented a bit of glam relaxed look that worked perfectly with the setting and did not alienate the brand’s signature. One of the red ombre tops was my personal favorite. The flowy contrasted with structured collection was quite the bang opening show on the third day.
A monochrome collection with metallic accented details and prints, By Johnny is Australia’s answer to USA’s Joseph Altuzarra (who’s also my fav… no pressure!!). From What I have seen of Johnny’s works, this was a far departure from his usual structural self, albeit a good one, showcasing how he is evolving as a designer. However even in that flounce, there was a certain structure and geometric-ness to it be it through prints or him juxtaposing prints to showcase some inventive patternmaking in some really similar and chic silhouettes. The grid patterns bounced off along with the garments and metallic lines playing peek a boo with pleats, what was most surprising and my favorite part of the collection was his use of floral motifs and how he used them in his own visual language (reminded me of his circle collection). Opting for a much more structured bohemian, it was fresh to see how the designer seems to stretch his own ideas and do it all too well.
MACGRAW girl is GROWING UP
The MacGraw girl is growing up but still wants to have her bit of girly fun. MacGraw’s latest outing was just that. While it reflected the girly foundations the brand laid last year, this year being the winner of the 2016 BT Emerging Fashion Designer Award, was in much more control and showcased the ‘resortibility’ of their aesthetics. The usual peter pan collared dresses did make an appearance, but were right up there with ruffles and printed long and short dresses in relaxed shapes. Heck they even put sleepwear on the runway and it was just right. I for one loved the light powder blue floral print lifting that heavy floral into a much lighter territory. The blush pink ruffles was sure to draw attention and the easy color palette accented with deep green tones kept things smooth. While going a bit of a grown up route, the MacGraw girls did not forget to have fun thus one managed to see fun bug prints and their penchant for details (remember that pink carpet last year) in the floral shoes. A bit of velor/velvet details accenting the collection provided that much needed break from all the fluffy-ness vibe of the collection, even though I personally was not a fan of that material as a suit. Overall as their brand is… a very cute showcase.
The BEACHY DiVAS of BEC & BRIDGE
Another one who opened up her runway pieces up for sale were the designers Bec & Bridge, who’s uber sexy resort collection was not everyone’s cup of tea. With a resort swimwear and some fun dresses against a floor of chalk-art (i’m still trying to establish a connection between something that glam and something earthy), Bec and Bridge’s collection was what all resort-wear is about… a great swim and a date night after with the perfect one…Another one to do tie ups, some of the one shoulder dresses were interesting with their cutout details, the silk champagne and yellow dresses were cool and the laid black flouncy blouses paired with pants and skirts were just on point. Using interesting string details to highlight sections, don’t forget to get your hands on one as you head out on that tropical vacation.
CONCEPTUAL CHRISTOPHER ESBER
The decision to showcase his collection in a studio gallery space rather than the usual runway sits right well with the conceptual Esber who easily combines conceptual and commercial elements within his ensembles (an ability me, as a fashion designer, is very jealous of). From fishnets to cutouts to fabricated and textured details on dresses, Esber’s part relaxed part deconstructed collection hit all the right notes. Relaxed pants, that knotted skirt, the ruffled up sleeves were balanced perfectly with structured and streamlined details. A dress with extending lower half details, also a personal favorite, and other interestingly deconstructed pieces showcased his epic pattern-making skills and the attention to details he pays. With fabricated details and layers in some deconstructed and organic shapes yet with a polished outlook gave Esber’s collection that edge that made him stand out.
Dabbling into the androgynous arena, Akira’s latest collection was no surprise a very organic and seamless showcase commenting on the genderless-ness of clothing. Relaxed and organic shapes in his signature earthy prints, Akira’s collection comprised majorly of indigo and whites punctuated with reds had quite the breathable and easy air about it. Using textured fabric and cottons along with signature prints, Akira’s collection was easy on the eyes. His decision to have male models, in relaxed pants, body contouring belts and even a skirtish silhouette made a subtle comment about genederization of clothing while similar silhouettes were worn by women. His signature bloom prints in bold sizes were up on one shoulder flowy dresses but my fav had to be the one drawing of it on textured cotton. Another one of his usual brilliant showcase.
Being from Subcontinent, embellishment and embroidery are not alien to me so when done on contemporary silhouettes, it always excites me with the results of how the designers treat them. At Khalil’s show one saw that with embroidery, some impressive pieces on Day 3. Known as Elie Saab of Australia – and with good reason- Khalil’s collection was steeped in usual embroidery and some red carpet silhouettes. Presenting some exquisite workmanship that he is known for, playing up with embellishment and sheer elements in dior-esque silhouettes, one saw half butterfly gowns, cocktail dresses and even a full fledged bridal gown.. My personal favorite had to be the minimal sheer/block white piece, that embroidered cape was just such an interesting silhouette and the tactical leaf embroidery on sheer gown was just so ethereal….
but then this walked down the runway… a piece that looked far too similar to Gaurav Gupta’s 2014 collection, it raised my eyebrows and was a bit perplexed on how a designer like Khalil could make a mistake like that…considering both the pieces look so similar (no adding sleeve and neckline does not change it), it stuck out like a sore thumb for me throughout the presentation leaving a bit of a bad taste.
Quitting her job and making a smashing debut in true Australian fashion, Jennifer Kate collaborated with illustrator Aaron Favaloro to create handpainted florals on select leather and suede. A solid collection of wearable clothes, Kate showcased suede bomber jackets, light leather trench coats and moto vests. With a fashion week that boasts of big names, her collection stood out because of its practicality and wear ability. My favorite had to be two tone leather pieces that seemed so light. Keeping things sleek and modern making us want leather back in our wardrobes, Kate’s collection was a rather convincing effort. An impressive debut.. Definitely a designer worth keeping a lookout for
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