For starters, I just fail to understand what will it take for designers to understand that winter festive does not necessarily means clothes for wedding or a bridals to be sent down the runway (you have a bridal fashion week for that). Yes, it is the upcoming ‘wedding season’ and people attending will want clothes but atleast give some worthwhile options… Festive does not have to mean you do the same old work in floral filgree over and over again – There quite a few that missed the ball altogether, others presenting rather meh collections and few managing to hit the right balance between wedding attendees and festive look. The collections that actually made themselves noticeable for better or for worse
Within the last few fashion weeks, Amir Adnan has successfully steered his brand towards a much more youthful and snazzy direction, but not without losing sight of his main market of men of a certain stature. His ability to balance the two, and that too that successfully shows why the man is in the business for so long with business model many want to emulate. With his latest presentation, he went for a very polished look with dinner jackets and badhgalas as well as kurtas and sherwanis. Leather bombers over business suit was perfectly bang on trend and something of a bad ass polished look vibe that works perfectly within the corporate setting. The collection was punctuated with monochromatic prints, gold and black embroidery in just the right amount how he likes it (I know that because I have worked with him). With a strong collection Adnan knows how to push the boundaries in the right direction
Going all out Black and Gold, with his baroque interpretation on the runway. Iqbal knows his market so well, he hit his mark perfectly between the commercial and the conservative with his brocade and embroidered jackets and sherwanis. From OTT to minimal the range was impressive and the fit perfect – I do understand that the show was for a festive theme but I do miss his experiments – Womenswear on the other hand left a lot to be desired with OTT garments with a lot of fabric and embroidery did not make for a good one – the sari was probably the only saving grace with limited embroidery and a stone texture.
DEEPAK and FAHAD
Probably one of the most talked about collections of this fashion week came from the duo Deepak and Fahad because no one expected this from them – a succint show pushing boundaries of commercial fashion. Underdogs for quite the while, Deepak & Fahad grabbed the spotlight by making a subtle statement with their pastel hued collection. They presented a range of silhouettes from safari inspired bandhgalas to sherwanis to an array of fun shalwars – Who knew tulip shalwars would work that well on men – LOVED IT. From white on white embroidered kurtas to brocade quilting, the textile treatment was sharp and the disposition soft for the upcoming winter festive season. A minor gripe was the footwear and that womenswear piece at the end could have been avoided for a well editied show.
The all black collections are always tricky because there is no where to hide. HSY’s collection comprised of fabricated combinations of leather and lace along with the base fabric and the designer choosing to evade all surface embellishment – probably a first for him – for his collection. What resulted a lot of hits with a couple of misses here and there, bringing out the bad boy side of this fashion designer. Where the menswear ranged from suits, biker jackets and jumpsuits, he called onto 90s with strong shoulders, leather and sometimes a bit of a ghetto outlook. A few pieces seemed a bit odd but overall the smart use of black saved it all
JEEM by HAMZA BOKHARI
His first foray into runway after his graduation show, Hamza Bokhari has grown as a designer and how. Launching his own brand JEEM, and going from strength to strength, it is to Hamza’s credit not to showcase the safe pastels for the winter weddings and opt for color. The presentation showcased serious deft handling of colors and fabric that sashayed down the runway. From interesting motifs and embroidery to extravagance, he pushed the limits of wedding season in many a pieces. Hamza presented the perfect collection for the wedding season and with the new store will definitely have ladies wanting to get a piece of it.
There are no two questions about it, Nauman Arfeen will make the perfect pakistani groomswear relating to his major mass market to high fashion clientele. Going for his usual hues of cremes, he added in an unusual grey, the deep red and the off beat green. Green being the least expected color I would expect him to use and esp. in that tone and balancing out perfectly for the little groomsmen. One of the few to use the fabric of the winter season – velvet, Arfeen presented embroidered velvet sherwanis but it was the dhoti that just took the cake for me. While the womenswear left quite a bit to be desired yet again, the menswear more than made up for it.
Something has happened to Nida Azwer. The usual master of pretty-ness presented a collection that was frumpy, odd and at ocassions a what the heyyyy!! moments. The usual ghararas were nothing home to talk about and some really weird proportioned bell bottoms were not good at all. The only good thing in the collection was probably the men’s shawls.
REPUBLIC BY OMAR FAROOQ
Silver, black and nude – that was all there is to the womenswear debut of republic by omar farooq. As exciting is their menswear, the festive wedding womenswear was that much boring with the ususal tried and tested formula. Expecting a lot from this menswear brand was probably wrong, but if you want to foray into unchartered waters then might as well do it as good if not better. With nothing home to write about, the collection was rather a lacklusture presentation from the brand.
Probably the only saving grace of the fashion week, Shehla Chatoor’s collection was probably the only one that successfully managed to combine the bridal and the festive-ness. From butterfly skirts combined with pants to her ghararas to combining a high street trend like cold shoulder so seamlessly into something so couture, Shehla Chatoor’s collection hit out the ball park on many looks. She even combined fur along with her signature fringes and made it all look come together. With nude, offwhites and cremes, Chatoor cleverly punctuated it with print, embroidery and colored velvet accents resulting a chic demi couture collection. My favorite has to be the high low black look- the print with embroidered accents was just on point and the off shoulder peplum top in champagne with a mermaid skirt.. loved it