The second fashion week of the season, The fashion week from Lahore had quite a few interesting collection that did explore the fun and business sides of fashion. The collections both by debutantes and established designers definitely had people sit up and take notice how pret is evolving within fashion. While there were a few that stuck to the formulaic commercialism, others did dare to venture out, pushing the envelope and making a damn point.
Barring the loud message and gimmicks along with it of wanting Basant back, Generation presented a collection that followed what they love doing – giving the twist to the Pakistani shalwar Kameez separates in a fun and such distinct manner and this time too was no different. Fun fresh and detailed, the prints balanced perfectly with slouched and relaxed silhouettes – geometric prints and patches gave off their kite inspired vibe without being too much in the face along with the use of Korean quilting technique Bojagi (traditionally used for wrapping gifts) – Generation made sure high street is anything but basics styled well
The guy who loves his textures and plays brilliantly with them , so meticulously that such fabrications have now become his signature. Even when he is doing embellishment and embroideries, such creation of textures is evident when he combines those separates with his fabrication ones. Going a bit of an embellished route – the last we saw him try that wasn’t too successful, Pardesy plays off his strengths of fabricated techniques and combines them with embellished and embroideries creating forth an interesting concoction in pastel palette that is just so cohesive. His pieces work in terms of overall look as well as can be separated – since most of them were mono toned looks – and that is the fun part.
REPUBLIC BY OMAR FAROOQ
One of the few brands pushing menswear envelope in Pakistan, Republic does that while remaining within the commercial silhouettes and remaining on trend (Yes the frosted pvc coat wasn’t lost on me). The fun prints in layered silhouettes with jackets, Republic opted for a much high street vibe which they manage to pull off very well with over sized and relaxed silhouette mixed in with their tailored pieces. The finer details were done very well to exude layering be it within sleeves or through optical deceptions of cropped denim jacket and pleated sleeves. While the bright orange painterly tee was definitely the highlight, it is the frosted pvc coat that was my favourite.
Khaadi did what khaadi does best – using motifs and inspiration from central asia and their chevrons creating a missoni like effect – that we have seen so many times in Khaadi’s regular range and there is nothing wrong with that – Khaadi played to its strengths and produced a cohesive collection that was well balanced – a bit too oversized and traditional approach on the silhouettes felt a bit dated but tben culturally that does work well for the brand in so many ways
With a penchant of print and that too that much is not everyone’s cup of tea, some finding it quite overwhelming – Zonia however does show a keen sense of balance and that too very deftly in her latest offering and I, for one, loved it. She did a print on print, combination of printed separates, balancing prints out with solids as well as layering up playing with sheer options – she does it all- in a relaxed tailored silhouettes that were pitch perfect for most parts. With a combination of floral and geometric elements, her prints were fun and her approach modern – My personal favs were the culottes with a white structured top and the striped jumpsuit with a solid/print vest
The often deconstructed and oriental influenced look scored more hits than misses in many of its looks. Obi inspired belts, kimono inspired silhouettes and oriental motif inspired prints and motifs all made an appearance within the collection that was easy and relaxed in neutral tones. Easy and cohesive, the collection did not break new grounds but being a textile brand, the presentation was on point. An oft repeated but still inspiring, I would like to see it being pushed more
After structural outing last time, Sania went back to her relaxed silhouettes, albiet with a much more restraint towards prints than her usual self. While the silhouettes reminded me of Payal Khandwala, Sania’s use of fabrics and monochromes and florals wasn’t out of the box (almost tempted to do the Meryl impersonation of ‘florals for spring’) , what was commendable was her choice to keep things paired back. While she is known for mix and match of prints, Sania showed amazing restraint in that department along with monochromes in relaxed silhouettes, definitely made for the better part of the collection. The use of metallics and the graduation from lighter florals to overall was a good buildup. Playing with light and dark florals alike, Sania’s collection definitely hit its mark and is sure to find plenty of takers because it was equal parts smart and sleek while going relaxed all at the same time. My personal favourites were the paper bag waist pants – though not many wouldn’t opt for them – they just perfect
P.S. KOKEB ALVI
Of the new generation lot, it was Kokeb Alvi’s presentation that stood out for all the right reasons.
*Images courtesy Dragonfly