Interesting Day 3 with lots of designers opting for commercial routes and the next generation giving us a lot to think about – it was an interesting mixed bag on Day 3
KATAMA BY GARRET NEFF
Very American in its aesthethic , with a perfect setting at Andrew Charlston Pool, the menswear resortwear presentation was rather good – the prints on the board shorts were fun and some of the shorts cut just right on the thighs – no not budgie smugglers – gave forth a fun and interesting and alternative swimwear silhouette. The board shorts of various lengths, paired with some interesting knits were fun – and the men sporting it all – lets just say the sun wasn’t the only thing raising temperatures that day
The women at MacGraw love their pretty cute girly vibe and design exactly something that suits their aesthetic and what they would wear. Perfect with commercial potential – as always – the MacGraw girl is growing up steadily as one sees the maturity within the collections and how they keep the frilly and flirty-ness alive through their silhouettes yet catering to a range of women. Ruffle and cute dresses, laces, fun swan prints and checks were the highlights of this presentation that was effective and understated. Like everytime, their attention to background to enhance their collection – this time they picked red and it played off with the blues, black and whites and even the bright red in their collection. An adorable collection and a brand that knows what it is and keep its aesthetic of cute with a bit of fun edge.
GEN NEXT:MEREDITH BULLEN
Oversized shapes, boxy silhouettes and the use of off loom hand woven fabrics combined with denim surely made for an intriguing showcase by this Gen Next designer who stood out for all the right reasons. The fringe frayed edges accented throughout the combination of the two fabrics was tasteful. Letting the woven fabric shine, Bullen’s silhouettes were simple but relaxed and deconstructive in places to let the fabric shine – she mixed up commercial silhouettes like the jumpsuit and the skirt along with more complex pieces like the off shoulder shirt dress with oversized woven sleeves – and to do that in just a capsule – it would be interesting to see where this designer goes from here
GEN NEXT: STEPHANIE HENLEY
The perfect example of a designer knowing her market well was this one – embellishments, fringes, and lots of glam fun was brought to the forefront while seemingly keeping it all light and breezy. What caught my eye especially was the short dress with red thread print/embroidery almost giving off sculptural vibes showcasing that the designer was not afraid to strike the balance of creative and commercial
Being for as long as Gary Bigeni in the Industry, you know a thing or two about put up a collection out there and presenting it with such finesse while retaining your signature. While the last collection that I saw of his saw him collaborate with an artist, this year for resort saw him turn towards metallics, solid tones and polka dots. Keeping his minimal aesthetic in clothes running through, his silhouettes included draped dresses, jackets, slip dresses, separates. Furthermore putting up a show, his graduation from solid colors and metallics to varied sizes of polka dots and and back to solids showcased that there is a running thought behind it all without missing a beat and before you know it , it’s over. A commercially viable collection that is bound to find buyers and yet pushing that creative envelope just that much (though i wish he would have done more but its resort there is only so much), this was a wise move and a collection
HANSEN & GRETEL
A muted color palette from the brand – the collection was wearable, yes – commercial,yes but its the runway presentation. Even with such a muted palette, the collection wasn’t too exciting but it had its share of hits – the paper bag pants were fun, so were some of the oversized shift dresses in silk – the also showcased a lot of ruffles (really a lot this year) but – yes the big but – the prints and the gingham fabrics did not do them any favor.. the closest it came to working was the pink draped slip dress. A lot of mix and matches that did not work – not quite the presentation I was hoping from the label
BEC & BRIDGE
Meowww – well that was the vibe of their collection – the collection with the sexy kitten vibes raised quite the temperatures with its very slick lines and body con dresses. Leather hot pants, slip dresses, ruffles (again) , swimsuits, off shoulder tops all made an appearance on the runway. The use of mesh over and under was the perfect amount of tease that suited the collection. Using polka dots was accented through the collection provided that needed break and the color moved from blacks, reds, tones of blues and whites. The colored eye liner to its winged stroke all played up for a smoking presentation. Blazer dresses and a playsuit with suiting elements in silk was my favorite one. They definitely achieved the uber glam and sexy look that they aimed at and with much success.
New Zealand based brand Zambesi was another very retail friendly collection that hit the runway showcasing menswear and womenswear. Sporty silhouettes and influences, holographic translucent fabrics combined with solids – the collection did start off pretty well and with some deconstructed dresses, and menswear but it had its share of hits and misses – while the bronze top, the trench inspired wrap tops and dresses in organza and sporty jackets and silhouettes were the highlights, what stood out like a bit of a sore thumb were the florals, the glitter and the oddly diagonal fabricated bombers that put speed bumps throughout the collection. A bit of bumpy ride, The relaxed as well as tailored silhouettes were nicely done and it was a good mix of solid colors (especially that mustard one shoulder raw edge hem was my favourite) and metallics, they had a mixed bag of things that could have been edited out – yes they wanted to show a range of things but it felt a bit disconnected from the rest of the better pieces that they had.
MICHAEL LO SORDO
Ok so I am going to come right out and say it – this wasn’t as good as last year *waits for hate comments*. Michael Lo Sordo’s presentation this time around was a bit underwhelming. The red tights under dresses was too much of a Balenciaga resonation that we had seen earlier this year and was too hard to ignore. He was the second designer of the night to go for holographic fabric this time in color which he did work to good effect in the first look with red jacket and pants and last one with black dress. The odd cutouts showcasing hips and more seemed more strange exposing hips and undergarments – but looked fine waist up. The oversized dresses to wrap dresses were nice silhouettes but a gold slip dress over a black lace top seemed a bit odd and one off without any connecting threads in the collection. More misses than hits – but it’s him so am sure next time would be Atleast the set and music was good.
The usually cerebral and meticulous Christopher Esber went for a far more commercial approach for his resort showing this time around. Using stripes, solids and mesh to a layering effect, this might be his most commercial outing but was definitely imbued with his signature for resort 2018. Relaxed suiting, maxi dresses, separates, oversized dresses, body cons – all strutted down the runway but in his signature pattern work of exploring the oddities at times but always striking out that perfect balance of design and knowing when to stop – one thing that I admire him as a designer that even in more out there and exaggerated pieces, he never loses the sense of balance and keeps it all easy on the eye that you keep wanting more. He said he wanted to steer away from his usual fabrics, and thus he showcased his deft hand even when stepping out of his comfort zone while keeping himself firmly grounded in his aesthetic.
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