CAMILLA AND MARC
Commemorating their 15 years, Camilla and Marc started off with a bang whilst transporting the audience into an other worldly realm with their set design. their signature tailoring and streamlined silhouettes in metallic fabrics celebrated all things them. With interesting fabrication techniques like fabricated weaving, fringes, knots within balenciaga-esque boxy silhouettes and some very smart tailoring – Camilla and Marc showed why have they sustained within this business for so long. Separates for days and off shoulder layering over shirts, jackets and long dresses in suede, florals and metallics – with clean and strong lines and structured look with a controlled draped effect , C&M covered a range and a lot of ground within their presentation. Oversized statement bags were their major statement accessory that gave things a much needed wow factor. A very Camilla and Marc presentation where they remained true to their self.
A collection set in the romanticized summer of Italy and consisting mostly of solid colored pieces, Albus Lumen did more than just made things difficult because then they gave an exact reference point and they couldn’t hide any flaws. Fortunately for them, the relaxed polished-bohemian vibe was so well executed within their collection and setting with which it was set it, it definitely demanded a second look to appreciate the details – and that is exactly what they know their customers do. Inspired by Pablo Picasso’s terracotta work in the 70s, Designer Marina Afonina knows the importance of how clothes appear and the details needed to make them shine – so there are contrasting buttons, and darts and seams to cinch pieces just in the right places that warrants a second look. Smart and clever, the designer wins in creating pieces that are transitional giving the user more bang for buck – shirts to be worn as jackets and waist ties give elevate pieces more than your regular fare – Afonina wants you to appreciate the details that go in effortless simplicity.
Bianca spender was an exercise in calm and collective with pops of orange that accented the serene palatte of her collection. The slight twists on everyday silhouettes- the open back, the twisted drapery, and combining with relaxed tailoring – all made this a winning commercial contender. Staying true yo her australian aesthetic, she had solids as well prints within her pieces that ranged from separates to long dresses.. with surprises just round the corner, this collection was ready to be sent to retail asap.
Coming from a fashion designer perspective, I personally found her last season much more adventurous in terms of pattern making and exploring the shirt. Anna Quan played a bit safe this season and decidedly taking a commercial route because at the end of the day it has to sell and it is a business. Dabbling in silks, she showcased dresses, slip tops and swimwear as well in a relaxed and cool palette dotted with fierce reds that seem to be the color on trend and stripes. However thankfully she did show here oversized and interesting tailoring in shirts, jackets and pants which were pitch perfect and on brand. Her last collection was definitely much better.
Set with an installation on the runway, it was refreshing to see the young designer Thomas Puttick put forth a sleek modern and very australian relaxed collection. Long knit dresses, shirts and separates and even hide skirts at points he combined materials like suede and pleated chiffons with success. Playing off the oversized trend with his relaxed silhouettes and fabrics he did the same feat with tailored pieces with sharply tailored blazers with strong shoulders and structured tops. Loved the thrown-over-the-shoulder bags. What was worth also noting was his use of models of different ethnicities and a range of age which gives buyers sense of how and the spectrum of market he covered – to see that kind of maturity within creative as well as business sense .. it would be interesting to see where he goes from here.
Romance, bling and a whole lotta ruffles – Alice McCall made the perfect case of why ruffles were having a moment under the sun on the trend radar. Floral prints, chiffons, lace to plain and glittered organza – McCall went all out and ran with it .. which did feel a bit of a repetitive detail but then she played with layering, prints and overlapping fabrications and frills to break it up. Presenting a range of silhouettes from separates to a multitude of sets of matching pairs, dresses of varying lengths each making the required impact that was required of it. Venturing into accessories with this collection the shoes and belts were also designed by the designer and were smartly paired contrastingly with dresses giving them a moment to shine as well
For a brand that does majorly a resort wear and unisex Hawaiian printed shirts, the Landsdowne pub seemed like an unusual location for the show – However once the clothes rolled out it all made sense. Designers Mikey Nolan and Toby Jones exploration of sea nomads was a melange of fun prints, as usual, including 80s inspired patterns, florals as well as text prints especially word SYNTHETIC – which was the starting point of their collection of artificial environment – however their collection was anything but robotic futurism that we have come to associate things with- experimenting within interesting silhouettes of synthetic lounge suits, disco bombers, swimwear, their usual printed shirts they also ventured within knits as well. Making the surfer and beach person cooler, they dabbled in oversized, layering and a cool streetwear vibe to the whole collection. It was Sarah Starkey’s perfect styling with fishhooks, baits and bucket bags and the whole hip streetstyle look that made sense for the collection to be hosted within the pub. Pitch Perfect and a good end to the first day