MBFWA RESORT 2019 – Day 4

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ST GEORGE NEXT GEN


Alissar.h
went for the deconstructed look to her oversized denim pieces that had roots firmly planted in the subcultures. She had torn, shredded, manipulated and twisted it all pushing denim along with metallic accents to her pieces.

Chris ran Lin probably made the most impact, most noise and drew most praise for his menswear capsule – all for the right reasons. Going for colors for his knitwear and outerwear, Lin used the the color and hardware smartly.. deep greens n reds accented with tweety bird yellow was just perfect… smart jackets, cold shoulder knits and more, he made all the right moves.

As a textile designer and a weaver myself, OFRO‘s presentation was a delight. The designer in her capsule deftly used woven elements especially weaving as a practical and interesting design feature playing with sheerness of the fabric made for interesting conversations with the body and how far the role of fabric and fashion comes in, in viewing bodies.


Gina Snodgrass
did a major flip for her menswear collection by putting men in laces, skirts and culottes contributing to the reversing the whole gender and clothing conversation. Dealing it with smartly she had lace paired with traditional masculine fabrics and silhouettes like kilts – it was an experience to see the collection because it pushes your social norm boundaries of gender and clothing.


FDS: THE INNOVATORS

The FDS innovators show presented a range of designers with such distinctive points of view that it makes me feel hopeful of fashion not being gentrified in the future – of all of the Matrai made the most impact for me with its 3D printing and construction details on point, within an ever familiar silhouettes, the designer pushed it. White hart combined streetstyle with chanel-esqu elements that worked for some but not personally for me. However their digital prints were commendable and used smartly especially for menswear pieces. ODD had too many prada and gucci references to miss out. ZRD was another favortie.. using bursts of color in the looks, the designer used cutwork, fur, texturization

 


RAFFLES
I love the days at the show when it is all about the new designers because they are unafraid to experiment. True that it would be taken it all away in the real world but then these guys know how to keep going. Missing the raffles graduate show this year, i was really excited because i do look forward to seeing it every year because I get to learn from it and these guys certainly did not disappoint. Standouts for me included Ginan Tabbouch with GTB, her approach to clothes was fresh especially inspired by streetwear and elements, her exaggerated knitwear was pitch perfect in execution. That off shoulder menswear jumper went straight up on my list (Ginan are you listening!! where are you lol) . From slashed denim to oversized knits to pleather and even doing the logo jumper, the execution was spot on. Ingrid Husodo‘s subtle nuances within her prints set her apart from the loud noise and is one commercially driven collection that she should drive out and should let her start setting up her production stream. Leah Williams was the perfect example of how to straddle commercial and individual point of view – with her solid separates, especially that blue dress, she called onto picasso-esque elements in contemporary space. Styling it to pitch perfection (those white boots were just so good), her separates were easily interchangable while she played with color blocks, surface treatment and ruffles. The only menswear capsule, A.M. did feel a bit tween to me, now that I am 30, but one could see individual pieces easily transferable and tweaked according to the ages and I, for one, am totally up for it

 


ROOPA

A fun, zazzy collection – roopa’s latest outing had a fellow blogger Rehan pocking out references since the inspiration was drawn from his homeland Nepal. Prints and embroidered motifs done right in just the right amount, Roopa. While being on trend with ruffles, jackets and off shoulder – the designers gave it all their own spin going down the print on print route and balancing it out with draped pieces. Without overbearing the silhouettes, the color palette was fun and bright but balanced in right proportions – embroidery in just the right amount, the designers explored Nepal though a series of separates that were adaptable and easy to style individually or with other pieces in the collection. Light, flowy and breezy even in their visually heaviest of silhouettes, Roopa managed to keep it all together finishing off with a chaiyyan chaiyyan song that definitely drew whistles from me

 


I AM GIA
Strong lines and at times trying to be edgy – i am gia was a good show with clothes that were nothing home to talk about. Bralets, pants, athleisure and jackets went with finding inspiration in streetwear mixed with grunge elements with few and far in between pieces that one would take notice of – like the fur jacket or the khaki jumpsuit but by then it was a bit too late to care. Not something we had not seen, i am gia tried a bit too hard and it showed.

 

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