It is that time of the year that we look back on the past year to see who made an impact on fashion, who set trends and who aced it in terms of costumes in movies in Bollywood. From fabulously styled to chameleon character looks transforming the actors, this year Bollywood dabbled in both regional and contemporary themes with its costumes within movies. From looking fab to getting down and dirty, the hindi movies explored it all in a range of movies. While there were many like Neerja and Dangal where the costume meshed so well with the character that you hardly notice it (the best thing a costume designer Read the rest of this entry »
Ever since I have been in Australia, I have noticed this certain commercial australian aesthetic in fashion. Day 4 had quite a few of these with KITX and C/MEO Collective made their debut with with such sensibility, catering to those masses and identifying with that Australian aesthetic which is chic, minimal and relaxed, something that is very important for designers to showcase to buyers is their retail strengths. However Day 4 was mostly dominated by shows that defied the social conventions as well going down the rebellious route. Subtlety was not their favorite word, where they were armed with quirky fun and statement design pieces. The whole day seemed like a constant battle of sorts between retail vs rebels.. hehe
TEA PARTY AT ROMANCE WAS BORN
Over the years Romance Was Born has gone bold, brazen and unapologetically over the top while retaining the same amount of crazy juxtaposition of element in their retail trickle down lines. However they do sometimes go a bit too OTT leaving it a bit gimmicky and this show had a few of those moments resulting in a few misses Read the rest of this entry »
I know I know I am late on this one, but better late than never right!! LIFE does get in the way and did I mention, I graduated and officially a Masters (you probably know that if you follow me on instagram 😛 )
While not averse to the idea of two fashion weeks, a full fledged and succinct fashion week with 5 days for all designers over the country would make much more sense, but I will not get into the politics of fashion, all I’ll say is that it is the case over all the world so Pakistan fashion industry going through it is no anomaly. The Fashion Pakistan Week that took place in Karachi showcased a multitude of designers showcasing their collections. From them, here are my picks:
Kicking things off on Day 1, Fashion Pakistan Week begun with the usual fervor with designers, Shehla Chatoor, Sania Maskatiya, Gulabo, Ayesha Hashwani, Tena Durrani, Hisham Malik and Sana Safinaz showcasing their luxury and high end collections.
When a designer like Iman Ahmed presents, you can be assured every detail from choreography to accessories to the needed impact would be taken care of. And that is what we got. Iman Ahmed’s Sartorial Philology and New Nomads was pretty much a bohemian class act. This boho woman, that Iman created within her show knew her mind and knew it well without a much care about what everyone else thought Read the rest of this entry »
The recently concluded Fashion Week had quite a few moments… some good many uh oh they didn’t . With its title sponsors as Telenor, the Fashion Pakistan Week, even though managed to pull off a fashion week, had a moments few and far in between. A stringent screening of collections would have helped and narrow things down to a much more gratifying fashion week.
The thing about Nida Azwer is that when she restrains herself to a limited color palette, she scores major brownie points within the pretty arena. Kicking off the fashion week, Nida went her usual pretty route with a french trellis inspired collection that rested on a neutral and metallic color palette with some very pretty embroidered treatments. Like I said earlier about Nida… She will never do NOT PRETTy Read the rest of this entry »
Do yourself a favor and just look at the collection…
There is a reason I am a fan of Sabyasachi’s much more contemporary looks and interpretations and Sabyasachi’s pret line Sabyasachi by Sabyasachi is a testament to that why. This people is what looks like a retro boho chic collection done right to pitch perfection looks like. Sabyasachi opened the Lakme fashion week with a bang that only he can. The scale, the setting at the mill and the disco laser lights all contributed to a somewhat an epic saga to the seventies.
The boho luxe collection was one of the best I have seen from the man and one can see why. The striped crop tops, the floral prints, the full skirts, the jumpsuits,even the menswear all came together for a seventies collection that paid ode to the bollywood queens of seventies Parveen Babi and Zeenat aman. The slinky sequined dresses, the floaty boho dresses, print-on-print flared pants and shirts, crystallized louche tunics, the bling was definitely on a high note playing tribute to the nightclubs and party scene of the seventies. The leather belts with lion motif on saris and dresses, the retro shades, the slick back hair, the collection that was styled to perfection also threw in a couple of sporty references within with numbered dresses that surprisingly did not look out of place (and reminded me of Tom Ford). The print on print menswear was one I have been lusting after since last season and this year he amped up the quotient with suits, bandhgalas, waistcoats worn over print on print churidar and tunic (I have tried that but not with the same prints). Many (read each) piece was bang on nailed perfectly and added to the whole colllection be it the basic seperates of the whole dress. One of the black dresses with red lining and paired up with printed pants, the gold shoes and accenting shoes on men, the mint green sequined dress are definitely worth the mention. The half and half pants, the fiery red floral pieces all just were literally effing good. Though I hated the slipper effect on men but just a minor glitch. Aiming at the younger audience, this has to be Sabyasachi’s most commercial pret collection ever.
While I still do miss the artsy Sabya from the heydays of his Frida Kahlo sensibilities, (it is still there), fashion ultimately is a business and he has grown as a designer by leaps and bounds becoming a movement towards textiles within his own right. While this collection is more closer to his earlier works than his traditional couture endeavors, one would definitely make comparasions. But obviously the evolution is going to spill over to the artsy him but the amalgamation of the two is what was presented here. Even within his va va voom glam outing there is a certain quirk of sensibilities that does shine through (more so than his recent outings) and that is what I was so happy about!! the return of the earlier Sabyasachi.
And even more why I love the collection, check out the Harpers Bazaar Shoot by Tarun Khiwal
*Show Images by Sagar Ahuja
So while I did do the Hollywood edition, my love for Bollywood movies forced me to have a similar list of fashion in movies. The clothes add in a certain layer to the movie so much so that if they blend in creating the character and representing the journey throughout the character that is where they win hands down. However these have to be noticeable for their effort to be in sync with the character. Bollywood usually resorts to a lot of glitz and glam, which though not bad (we get to see some fun clothes in credit songs and item numbers) it overpowers the actors. Fashion in movies need to support that act in actors and there were quite a few Filmi Fashun moments this year
When Madhuri the actress takes centrestage, Madhuri the DIVA makes an alluring aura around it. Even with others present, it is just her that you see in the frame Playing a Begum (a woman of aristocratic lineage) Madhuri brings in more than her grace and charm to the character which is styled to perfection in Lucknowi Nawabi (royal) look. Throughout the movie she has donned ghararas, shararas, sarees, anarkalis and churidaars, all in monochrome. Credit goes to Payal Saluja for keeping things interesting by executing the whole look but punctuating it through different silhouettes. Barring her wedding dress which was a mix match of red dupatta, green shirt and offwhite lehenga, Madhuri’s Begum never looks boring in monochrome with a perfectly draped dopatta and an aptly placed jhoomar. Muted Kalamkari, Jamawar and Kashmiri Shawls worn by the elder couple (Naseer and Madhuri) are a delight adding to the antiquity vibe of the movie. Off the fabrics Lucknowi Chikankari makes quite an appearance, in end credits, a beige anarkali number and in one of the saris styled to perfection so beautifully, reminded me of Maharani Gayatri Devi. It looked contemporary south asian vintage at its best.
The moments Madhuri had with Dedh Ishqiya, Tabu had in them in Haider. Adapting Hamlet and that too in a Kashmiri setting, with such cultural baggage, Dolly Allhuwalia had a lot of material to work with. However credit to her for exercising immense control in her designs and costumes for the cast of Haider. She kept things contemporary and conservative at the same time. Representing emotional angst through her clothes, be it Shahid’s Kashmiri pherans (kashmiri kurta/tunic) or having Tabu oscillate between brighter and darker color palettes depending upon the emotional situations. Layered with mens jackets, cardigans, layered uppers and floor tunics. Giving Shraddha a young spunk through florals or giving KK sherwanis, Allhuwalia excelled at playing the dressmaker with playing against the Kashmiri background. Using red and black menacingly in the ending climax sequence, she manages to pull off emotional and mental intensities of characters against the snow laden Kashmir.
When the fashionista of Bollywood is set to star in a movie, all eyes are on her and Sonam Kapoor did not disappoint at all. Cast as the misfit amongst the royals and aristocrats, the sprightly Mili in Khoobsurat was a perfect contradiction to the polished royal tone with her clash of vibrant hues, prints and bohemian silhouettes. Layered using jackets, with fun tunics and screaming prints, Mili seemed the perfect prodigy of her equally Masaba outfits strutting mom. Fawad as the prince made for the perfect Disney prince with his polished looked whether in suits, bandhgalas or kurta and Aligarh pajamas.
SHAADI KE SIDE EFFECTS
One of the best styled homes that I saw this year in movies had to be undoubtedly from this movie. Playing urban chic to perfection, Vidya balan’s look oscillated between the professional to boho chic with pieces from Dev R Nil, Anand Kabra and others with chunky bangles to offset the whole look. Vidya shows off her curves and does not make them an excuse to drape herself. Clever wardrobe choices and silhouettes from belted dresses to straighter printed kurtas work in her favour. With her makeup done to perfection, whoever said professional working women needed to look over polished. Farhan on the other hand kept it cool, urbane and casual as a musician in tees, and buttoned up shirts.
Probably THE movie of the year, Queen saw Kangana’s character Rani evolve from a shy over protected and timid to come into her own freedom and decisive woman. One of the best performances of Kangana’s career, the clothes with their subtle changes and hints evolve throughout the movie showcasing the journey of this timid one blooming beautifully coming into her own. From sporting shalwar kameez with her wild mane to coming to Paris and encountering Vijaylaxmi opting for kurtis with jeans, peter pan collared tops with floral skirts and ending on a high note with a pastel pleated maxi jamming to the tunes. Who knew we’d spot a Sana Safinaz at the end too.
A classic example of Kashmir to Kanyakumari…the unusual road trip movie that spans across wide geographical maps, had Alia Bhatt as Veera and her kidnapper Randeep Hooda as Mahabeer play the protagonists so brilliantly that one forgot the aura they carried off screen. With influences of clothes in every region that they travelled into, the progression of Veera’s outfits was both logical and organic. From donning kurtas and pagris from her sweatpants to oversized pherans, jackets, shalwars and oversized shoes. It all made sense because she was on the go and was kidnapped. Alia looked unconcerned but put together as someone would making the best of with whatever they could find. Aki Narula keeps things simple and evolving subtly. Yet even in those oversized clothes, Alia Bhatt shone brilliantly portraying Stockholm syndrome to a T.
*Images belong to their respective owners
The Fashion Pakistan Week kicked off in full storm and I enjoyed every livestreamed minute of it (wish I was there). Kudos to Latitude and Faisal Kapadia for having one of the most seamless livestream. Though it did have a couple of glitches, but for most part I was a happy camper staying up for the fashion week
With sightings of it on red carpet, I have to admit I was a bit skeptical about the opening show of Ather Hafeez for Sana Safinaz. However as soon as it began, my doubts were defintitely put to rest with a collection that was high on glam and embodied all qualities of a boho chic vibe running throughout it. The band walas playing Dum Maaro dum and seamlessly flowing into Get Lucky was the perfect accompaniment for the collection with its upbeat vibe and quirky accents.
The fablousness that sashayed onto the ramp via this collection comprised of some deft handling at layers, drapes and prints on silks. The collection that featured kitschy prints combined with those black and whites, in an array of colors, saw Ather Hafeez return to his element. What I loved about the collection was layers on layers on layers of prints but done soo right in terms of proportions and balance that nothing looks out of place. With a nod to referencing seventies, calligraphy crop tops, breezy jackets, print peek-a-boo of bra lets, printed pants (wide and tapered) all worked together bringing a collection that was right up my boho chic alley. What I also loved were the round shades that were a perfect tribute to the vintage with models channeling their inner Zeenat Aman (one of the ensemble even reminded me of her.. guess which one hint: its one of the top 5) on the ramp. Barring some pieces, yellow one on cybil, two opening pieces (both were too villagey styled and a bit too OTT), bling tank dress seemed odd in the whole collection though I loved it and the lime yellow top with pink pants and blue upper looked kinda bit jokerish, the collection had many brilliant moments. The splash of color on runway was the perfect way to start things off. My picks.. the last five pieces in pictures above.. Loved that calligraphy crop top styled to perfection, sheer pants and the whole boho vibe of the dress (perfect dum maro dum moment) and collection…What was there not to love
Dawned, but yet to Rise
Ishtiaq Afzal Khan is best remembered for the debacle of his last outing. His collection resided on solid colors inspired from dawn fared better than his previous offering but because we have seen so much of it already, his collection seemed a bit in need of an update. Starting off with a trio, he presented what seemed like three mini capsules on the runway from matt gold pistachio to oranges to midnight hue. The collection featured an array of dresses, saris with jackets (iraj made that work,sorry), fun take on patialas and basic seperates. While he did not experiment much, he came under the fire because it was too basic. That mini dress would have been a winner if not for bad stitching. The patialas though as much as I liked them and offered a break in the sequence of things, they felt a bit of misfit in a collection that was much more body flattering and streamlined lines. I also spotted a dior meet Zara Shahjahan skirt (from where u ask? similar vibe and print that she used). An orange ensemble with a quilted jacket had a confused inner with part bra let, part lace going on. The collection did present some interesting elements but for most part the three capsules sort of seemed disconnected from each other.
He also presented one menswear, one each for each set. The matt gold one was too vintage with a 50s vibe and the black one needed a better fit. Of the three the rusty orange quilted jacket fared a much better success. Also one of the fawn gold pieces from the trio, the peplum leather top was near flawless with the hot sheer low back and coupled with ripple quilted pants. And as I said earlier loved the patialas with layered tops esp those quilted kotis were fun spins.
Always love a jacket with a dress and sneakers (Rubya Chaudhry pulled that off brilliantly), Sadly for Levis, that moment came a bit too soon. An example of how putting together pieces and styling is a necessity, Levis provided a view on how could it all go wrong and what not to do. While the concept of presenting a winterwear was on point, the selection of pieces that could have made up for a potential winning casual outing was let down. Ah where to begin, from Adnan Siddiqui’s 90’s laidback look oddly fitted(even he couldn’t save it)to the psychedelic purple jeggings to washed out pastels with jarring boots that made even Neha look stout to those camouflage pants looking way outta place in the whole collection. A whole lot went wrong at many points and while the same collection could have been presented way better, this was a bit of an missed oppurtunity.
Selecting the pieces to go on the runway from your regular lines makes sense, but what to showcase and putting together as ensembles does become a point of inference. You do know there are bloggers in Pakistan and could have collaborated with them… Collab ideas! is anyone listening.