Fashion scene in Pakistan needs a bit of a rejuvenation since the designers are producing a lot of same ol same ol. Designers need to understand that people are going to wear with what options they are presented with and thus need to reassess what their presentations are consisting of. Innovation, creativity and commerce all need to come together. While some made a splash at this season”s Fashion Pakistan Week 2017, some failed to do so.
It is that time of the year that we look back on the past year to see who made an impact on fashion, who set trends and who aced it in terms of costumes in movies in Bollywood. From fabulously styled to chameleon character looks transforming the actors, this year Bollywood dabbled in both regional and contemporary themes with its costumes within movies. From looking fab to getting down and dirty, the hindi movies explored it all in a range of movies. While there were many like Neerja and Dangal where the costume meshed so well with the character that you hardly notice it (the best thing a costume designer Read the rest of this entry »
This fashion week also saw quite a few designers display a much more chic approach towards fashion. One that could be styled however one like and be on top of their style game, channeling their inner polished Victoria Beckham
While there was nothing abnormal about Anomaly’s presentation, the collection was pretty commercial and very retail friendly in its outlook. Minimal in its outlook and clean lines and a polished silhouette, the collection was simple Read the rest of this entry »
While Day 3 is usually touted to be the best day of the fashion week, there were quite a few surprises in store for me as the collections walked down the ramp. Some hits, some pleasant surprises and some misses, but it was a quite the satisfying day.
When a designer like Iman Ahmed presents, you can be assured every detail from choreography to accessories to the needed impact would be taken care of. And that is what we got. Iman Ahmed’s Sartorial Philology and New Nomads was pretty much a bohemian class act. This boho woman, that Iman created within her show knew her mind and knew it well without a much care about what everyone else thought Read the rest of this entry »
Do yourself a favor and just look at the collection…
There is a reason I am a fan of Sabyasachi’s much more contemporary looks and interpretations and Sabyasachi’s pret line Sabyasachi by Sabyasachi is a testament to that why. This people is what looks like a retro boho chic collection done right to pitch perfection looks like. Sabyasachi opened the Lakme fashion week with a bang that only he can. The scale, the setting at the mill and the disco laser lights all contributed to a somewhat an epic saga to the seventies.
The boho luxe collection was one of the best I have seen from the man and one can see why. The striped crop tops, the floral prints, the full skirts, the jumpsuits,even the menswear all came together for a seventies collection that paid ode to the bollywood queens of seventies Parveen Babi and Zeenat aman. The slinky sequined dresses, the floaty boho dresses, print-on-print flared pants and shirts, crystallized louche tunics, the bling was definitely on a high note playing tribute to the nightclubs and party scene of the seventies. The leather belts with lion motif on saris and dresses, the retro shades, the slick back hair, the collection that was styled to perfection also threw in a couple of sporty references within with numbered dresses that surprisingly did not look out of place (and reminded me of Tom Ford). The print on print menswear was one I have been lusting after since last season and this year he amped up the quotient with suits, bandhgalas, waistcoats worn over print on print churidar and tunic (I have tried that but not with the same prints). Many (read each) piece was bang on nailed perfectly and added to the whole colllection be it the basic seperates of the whole dress. One of the black dresses with red lining and paired up with printed pants, the gold shoes and accenting shoes on men, the mint green sequined dress are definitely worth the mention. The half and half pants, the fiery red floral pieces all just were literally effing good. Though I hated the slipper effect on men but just a minor glitch. Aiming at the younger audience, this has to be Sabyasachi’s most commercial pret collection ever.
While I still do miss the artsy Sabya from the heydays of his Frida Kahlo sensibilities, (it is still there), fashion ultimately is a business and he has grown as a designer by leaps and bounds becoming a movement towards textiles within his own right. While this collection is more closer to his earlier works than his traditional couture endeavors, one would definitely make comparasions. But obviously the evolution is going to spill over to the artsy him but the amalgamation of the two is what was presented here. Even within his va va voom glam outing there is a certain quirk of sensibilities that does shine through (more so than his recent outings) and that is what I was so happy about!! the return of the earlier Sabyasachi.
And even more why I love the collection, check out the Harpers Bazaar Shoot by Tarun Khiwal
*Show Images by Sagar Ahuja
I know … I know I was meant to review the collections from LCM and I know its pretty late in the day. But my apologies for that. For those who don’t know LCM is London Collection: Men, a fashion week dedicated solely to Menswear. Designers especially those in London do make it a point to have a presentation. While this time around the Fashion Week was a bit low key, needless to say it wasn’t without it’s major high points.
Tom Ford deems it extremely difficult to change up evening wear menswear, one challenge that he triumphs everytime he ventures into a presentation of menswear. While it was not a runway show for him at LCM, Tom Ford has made it a point of showcasing his outfits through a personal appointment, primarily because of counterfiet. His collection, undoubtedly was sexy and a straight up nod to the sixties with optical illusions and patterns in a black and white palette. Successfully combining leather with evening wear as well as playing up on jackets with the shearling trend (you’d be surprised at the amount of designers who showcased this 70s trend) for upcoming winters in the northern hemisphere, Tom ford’s collection was visually stunning and immaculately made. From tailored fits to oversized coats with drainpipe pants, he nailed his latest outing for AW15.
Never the one afraid to make a statement, Christopher Shannon’s latest offering seemed more like a social comment on the social standing of many people struggling to make ends meet. From taglines of Save me and Broke with trash adorned as headgear and some interpretation of garments as st-ripped plastic bag coming apart at seams, the collection made an observational comment on the conditions of the not so elite population. He combined the trash with loads of sportswear references. Oversized, Ripping apart or Cinched at waist (yes his corsets did make it to the runway), his collection hinted at the irony of speaking up for those who wouldn’t be able to afford it, while being expensive within its commerce. We don’t get to see much of these statements on runway these days let alone for menswear.
The chic set, the live singer and a modern approach, the Burberry brand under Christopher Bailey has come quite a long way. This time around with a chic boho vibe to the collection, Burberry’s presentation within closed walls and indoors was a picture of luxe approach that the brand is known for. The Classically Bohemian collection hit quite a few high notes esp. for me since it was somewhat I personally like. Part boho, part chic, the pieces were relaxed, the silhouettes slightly upsized and with a generous amount of accents and pops within the ensemble. Rich tones, printed accents, fringed shawls (that green look was a-mazing) all came together for an outing of glam with a bohemian twist. Heck he even did leopard well in some of the garments (and no I still am not personally inclined towards leopard print… ever… unless done extremely well). From print on print to model sporting mirror worked shirts and scarves, this was one well travelled urban gypsy that made waves on the runway. However even in his Bohemian outing, Bailey’s twist on classics does lean on it too to provide that offset a perfect grounding to make that impact. What I liked… solids paired with prints, printed seperates, the green suited look with luxurious fringed shawl…pretty much almost everything
The design team at Topman knows their commercial game all too well that they send down the runway a whole journey of looks covering a wide base of range that could later be trickled down in their stores. They know you need to amp it up for the runway and they do it how. Going the Bombay Rollers theme, the collection’s sixties theme was pretty evident within its presentation. With the psychedelic patterns running in the backdrop, I wonder if they went on a bit of Dum Maaro Dum journey… heehehe. The collection with its coming together of silhouettes from opposing ends of the world came together from capes and jacket to hippie prints. Graduating into plaid looks and shearling jackets, the Bay Rollers band inspiration played all too well within the collection. However the designers were careful not to present and overtly costumey collection. Particularly with menswear a slight alteration in fit or a centimeter or two more within that flare of hem and it would have been a disaster and that is where the brand scored. Exercising immense control over it’s ensembles, one could already see how the pieces would translate within the store as seperates. The brand held its own amongst the ‘designer’ giants with a precision and restraint that was impressive to every thread count.
Part American Hustle, Part modern day dandy, J.W.Anderson’s collection oozed a lot of 70’s with its silhouettes and presentation along with his mishmash of references from the past. From flared trousers, extra large collars, corduroy jackets to seude coats, trim shearlings on jackets and and oversized silhouettes, Anderson unapologetically borrows from past and is not afraid to display his references. From that to evoking the turn of the 19th century dandy with solid colored suits and fringed scarves, Anderson’s devil may care attitude was pretty evident in his slew of ensembles that echoed bygone eras. The one to have fun with fashion, his collection was hard to slot … a perfect setting that went with his notes of ‘a free thinker with an interest in pataphysics (a prankish pseudo philosophy)’. With an intriguing quality that is hard to achieve as a designer to leave his audience with questions and discussions who the collection was for makes up for an interesting intentional feat to achieve where there is always a margin to look amatuer or look like it was put up in last few minuntes… If one was to go by his word, he definitely did not let his audience inhabit a comfort space for too long regarding his presentation as his ensembles made their way down the runway, keeping them guessing for who it was for…a futuristic vintage man (if there is any such) maybe!!! Who’s to say!
Capturing the cenetary moment of World War I within the AW15 Collection for men, Sarah Burton at Mcqueen weaved history within fashion. With military as her reference points and all encompassing details… from epaulets to medals.. the whole hog but with a certain chic aesthetic. From jackets with boldly embroidered texts to pinstripe suits, Burton played upon the classic british uniform for men in all its glam. The poppies that were sent down the moat of Tower of London, as a remembrance, were used in abundance as a recurring motif. While I wasn’t too keen on the poppy trims that made for an ‘X’ on the models, however when rendered in silk jacquard for suits and coats for an overall effect made for a winning look. A play upon the armor with rose on the front of a three piece suit seemed to represent a sacred-ness of sorts of a protective breastplate like tiraz bands and calligraphic vests for Ottomans. It was melancholic with a dash of comment on the present times where war seems to be one of the major omnipresent thoughts.
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
Massimo Nicosia of Pringle of scotland believes in availing the opportunity of utilizing techniques both old and new (whatever he can get his hands into) within his collection. Approaching knitwear not in the usual way thus then results in an ensemble that is luxe and unusual. Manifesting design techniques and investigating into other areas, the brand pushes boundaries within knitwear construction by meshing for example 3D printing and knitting together. Be it being inspired by old tapestry, working with old looms or incorporating futuristic methods, the collection had a variety of chunky cardigans, coats, jackets in a chic avatar sent down the runway. What probably was of a personal visual interest was the fact he combined leather and knit, the clash, effortlessly within a single ensemble. Restrained and spiffy, this was definitely the modern day urban brit down the runway. My fav pieces had to be the salt n pepper cardigan and the tapestry inspired knits.
AGI & SAM
Probably one of the most talked about collection this LCM, Agi & Sam’s latest offering was one for the extremes. You either loved it or hated it. Playing upon their childhood memories, the collection was a deconstruction of their nostalgia of sorts sent down the runway which seemed to be styled such that it had its high and low moments within the short span of the presentation. Probably the most talked about pieces has to be their lego inspired head and face pieces that adorned the models. The duo known for their love for prints (definitely did not disappoint in that regards) and tailored menswear went the deconstructed route with their fall outing. Looser and wider silhouette with cropped pants dominated their collection. The prints and knits were permutations of VHS covers and prescription drug packaging that had been merged then given to children, who painted their own versions. I for one, found myself lusting after many of the pieces esp the coats. They were statement pieces that were bold, brazen and unapologetically brave… the kids definitely say the darnedest things
Harking back to traditional techniques, roots and tailoring it was all about looking in the past via a different lens than what many others did this LCM for Hardy Amies. While many looked at different eras, Mehmet Ali from Hardy Amies focused on perfecting the art with a modern outlook. Inspired by his trekking, the collection had climber’s tube rope running through the collection as a common thread. Be it as graphics on flannel or woven in. Combining tailoring and knitwear with intense layering looking impeccable and non fussy, with a nonchalant vibe in some looks. The brand looked back at its tailoring which was bang on point, impeccable and finessed to perfection in very british fabrics. Going through the tested waters, the designer used traditional, teasel-brushed wool, a more or less obsolete technique. Who said you needed to shock in order to make a statement… get yourself pieces from Hardy Amies.
Lots of color, scrabble prints, cropped pants, cheeky tees and texture was what all Kit Neale’s collection all about. A fun affair with bursty color palette, Kit Neale’s collection embraced color in its entirety. While the pork pie hats in color pop shades provided the perfect accessory, the doc martens and forest green nodded the upcoming season. With an explosive array of typographic prints, Neale’s alphabet print pants were the one’s that garnered much applause for me. However it cannot be ruled out that with his take on single breasted suit, paired with shorts in print was quite an effort to turn tradition on its head. Bomber jackets and patched typo pieces evoked a bit of 90s and in parts childlike pre-teen inspired adventure life that played wonderfully with the youthful vibe of the show. With some statement jewels showing up at occasion during the presentation, imparted a bit of a rebel vibe with a taste.
When a designer twists tailoring onto its head with an impeccable outing, you are bound to sit up and take notice. With its angled look and geometric lines, the construction by Carlo Brandelli is futuristic and contemporary while adhering to the Savile Row brand Kilgour. Playing up with the construction in its truest form, Brandelli manipulated the lapels and peaks within the traditional definition of ‘suit’ playing up with the recognizable shape and form yet giving it a futuristic edge. It is that cultural conversation of tradition versus contemporary that Brandelli seems to be wanting to explore with his set of design aesthetics with which he derived this collection. Almost wanted me to have these star in the Divergent series. Turning tradition inside out, the designer reconstructed the suit with a contemporary language that has all the potentials of turning into a modern day classic.
Following a pink precedent set by designer legends like Westwood, an ode to the british wild child of the boarding school, made up for a perfect theme for the collection. The pink short suits, blazers and jackets (striped ones were my fav), rebelliously laid back tied ties, pink shearling effect and pink constructed and ripped knits.. one of my favs was also the crumpled brown-paper-effect short suit. The pink and black collection with pink hair, biker jackets and use of leather also hinted at a nod to the punk. The Play School collection referred to the childhood nostalgia through the naively knitted oversized teddy bears that hung from models lapels and shoulders that added to drama of the pink power. The part hip, part brit and part punk collection byt the trio designers definitely made pink THE color of the season.
With an all clear or rather almost all black palette, Ada + Nik’s AW15 outing definitely gave me what I expected of the designers. With their signature design aesthetic in place, the nascent brand, with very experienced backing designers showed what possibly could be the future of the hipster look. Going for a much polished and minimal approach they kept the hip essence within the pieces with a contemporary outlook. There was a cleverness even within their strategy of keeping things simple. From tunics to bomber jackets, longline coats, biker jackets and tops in a variety of tech materials reflected an evolution of the brand’s signature outerwear. Heck they even showed the ‘Narrative Jacket’ – the world’s first leather jacket with in-built camera, in collaboration with the Narrative Clip to capture photos and location data without conscious interaction, breaking the fourth wall in the art of storytelling. Playing up with textures they used layered velvet sneaker net, showerproof tech fabrics, crease free memory cotton, sustainably intelligent cotton ribs and luxury airtex. One also got to see the oversized sweater (this trend seems to be for the keeps) looks as well as some interesting shaped pants. The NOIR DESIR collection was both statement and luxury while referencing the notion of Greco Roman meets 1970s British Punk culture. A masterclass in a constructed hipster chic look.
*Images belong to their respective owners
The Fashion Pakistan Week kicked off in full storm and I enjoyed every livestreamed minute of it (wish I was there). Kudos to Latitude and Faisal Kapadia for having one of the most seamless livestream. Though it did have a couple of glitches, but for most part I was a happy camper staying up for the fashion week
With sightings of it on red carpet, I have to admit I was a bit skeptical about the opening show of Ather Hafeez for Sana Safinaz. However as soon as it began, my doubts were defintitely put to rest with a collection that was high on glam and embodied all qualities of a boho chic vibe running throughout it. The band walas playing Dum Maaro dum and seamlessly flowing into Get Lucky was the perfect accompaniment for the collection with its upbeat vibe and quirky accents.
The fablousness that sashayed onto the ramp via this collection comprised of some deft handling at layers, drapes and prints on silks. The collection that featured kitschy prints combined with those black and whites, in an array of colors, saw Ather Hafeez return to his element. What I loved about the collection was layers on layers on layers of prints but done soo right in terms of proportions and balance that nothing looks out of place. With a nod to referencing seventies, calligraphy crop tops, breezy jackets, print peek-a-boo of bra lets, printed pants (wide and tapered) all worked together bringing a collection that was right up my boho chic alley. What I also loved were the round shades that were a perfect tribute to the vintage with models channeling their inner Zeenat Aman (one of the ensemble even reminded me of her.. guess which one hint: its one of the top 5) on the ramp. Barring some pieces, yellow one on cybil, two opening pieces (both were too villagey styled and a bit too OTT), bling tank dress seemed odd in the whole collection though I loved it and the lime yellow top with pink pants and blue upper looked kinda bit jokerish, the collection had many brilliant moments. The splash of color on runway was the perfect way to start things off. My picks.. the last five pieces in pictures above.. Loved that calligraphy crop top styled to perfection, sheer pants and the whole boho vibe of the dress (perfect dum maro dum moment) and collection…What was there not to love
Dawned, but yet to Rise
Ishtiaq Afzal Khan is best remembered for the debacle of his last outing. His collection resided on solid colors inspired from dawn fared better than his previous offering but because we have seen so much of it already, his collection seemed a bit in need of an update. Starting off with a trio, he presented what seemed like three mini capsules on the runway from matt gold pistachio to oranges to midnight hue. The collection featured an array of dresses, saris with jackets (iraj made that work,sorry), fun take on patialas and basic seperates. While he did not experiment much, he came under the fire because it was too basic. That mini dress would have been a winner if not for bad stitching. The patialas though as much as I liked them and offered a break in the sequence of things, they felt a bit of misfit in a collection that was much more body flattering and streamlined lines. I also spotted a dior meet Zara Shahjahan skirt (from where u ask? similar vibe and print that she used). An orange ensemble with a quilted jacket had a confused inner with part bra let, part lace going on. The collection did present some interesting elements but for most part the three capsules sort of seemed disconnected from each other.
He also presented one menswear, one each for each set. The matt gold one was too vintage with a 50s vibe and the black one needed a better fit. Of the three the rusty orange quilted jacket fared a much better success. Also one of the fawn gold pieces from the trio, the peplum leather top was near flawless with the hot sheer low back and coupled with ripple quilted pants. And as I said earlier loved the patialas with layered tops esp those quilted kotis were fun spins.
Always love a jacket with a dress and sneakers (Rubya Chaudhry pulled that off brilliantly), Sadly for Levis, that moment came a bit too soon. An example of how putting together pieces and styling is a necessity, Levis provided a view on how could it all go wrong and what not to do. While the concept of presenting a winterwear was on point, the selection of pieces that could have made up for a potential winning casual outing was let down. Ah where to begin, from Adnan Siddiqui’s 90’s laidback look oddly fitted(even he couldn’t save it)to the psychedelic purple jeggings to washed out pastels with jarring boots that made even Neha look stout to those camouflage pants looking way outta place in the whole collection. A whole lot went wrong at many points and while the same collection could have been presented way better, this was a bit of an missed oppurtunity.
Selecting the pieces to go on the runway from your regular lines makes sense, but what to showcase and putting together as ensembles does become a point of inference. You do know there are bloggers in Pakistan and could have collaborated with them… Collab ideas! is anyone listening.