Mercedes-Benz Fashion week is one of the major event the city of Sydney looks forward to. Apart from the usual fervor of streetstyle which is definitely a separate post on it’s own – keep watching this space for it, the week showcased collections by designers many of who opting for a much more commercial route and played it safe- which makes sense for the business – but come on it’s a runway presentation so there were quite a few who definitely stepped up balancing that line of creative and commercial.
Day 2 saw another slew of designers putting forth a show for the evening. Of these only two came up trumps by staying true to their aesthetics. While we saw many bridals, a couple of brands also showcased pret a porter for the wedding season giving the much needed break from the usual desi wedding options.
The recently concluded PLBW had its share of GOOD as well as UGH moments. While there were quite a number of presentations that came down the runway, here is my top 10 picks from the fashion week .
HSY’s Grand Affair: The gold encrusted, full sleeved and backless choli is all you need this bridal season. Paired with the perfect color of coral, the red pops just enough provide that high cropped oomph to set the ramp and trend ablaze with its silhouette. Playing up on the traditional, HSY nails this combo and how. Showing in the first segment where his muse was Vaneeza Ahmed, this coral that borders just around orange, along with the red was one of my favourites from this collection. The dopatta offsets the sharara and choli but rather not too harshly. The hand worked red sharara and the border add in to the ensemble. While I am not too high about the matha patti styling, a sucker for sexy-traditional had me sit up on those sharp red roses bun that he made for his models. LOVED them! And they go brilliantly with the full sleeve and backless-ness. Brides-to-be! Its time to hit the gym.
SADAF MALATERE: Sadaf Malatere is one designer who has a quirky sense of style that sometimes borders on being eccentric. While her aesthetic might not be everyone’s cup of tea, she surprised everyone with a vibrant take on the formals and bridal trousseau in her collection. Vibrant tones of fuschia, reds, oranges and blues dominated the initial offering in her collection and actually had everyone take up notice. With minimal gold embellishments, this is one collection that can be expected to be lapped up by those with a contemporary taste. My pick from her collection was this blue front knotted full sleeved blouse paired with a fiery reddish orange gharara that sealed the deal for me. The chiffon ensemble is seemingly light and for those bridesmaids with the no preference for handembroidery (yes such people exist!)
FAHAD HUSAYN The guy just knows how to produce wonderful collection. One of the top collections of this whole bridal week, Fahad’s collection started off with whites, treated in cottons and muslins. The opening piece which was my pick, definitely grabbed eyeballs due to its high cropped choli, the very innovative hair jewellery, the Gopi dots above brows and the necklace that was uber-chic and sexy to say the least. The fit was impeccable and not a seam out of place in this simple yet sexy ensemble. As the collection progressed, he introduced color into it, but what stays with you is his white works. Yes it may seem Indian!! So!! as long he does it well.
MISHA LAKHANI The easy on the eye collection by Misha Lakhani gave everyone a welcome break from all the OTT. My pick from her collection was one of the unusual colors that she chose in chartreuse. While a tricky color to play with, Misha, with her deft layering to the garment and makes it actually work pretty well to be worked into a modern bride’s trousseau. Playing up with sheer, she paired the sheer embroidered shirt with a plain flared pajama with just enough bling through that gota work at the hem. The net dopatta with a border complimented the shirt and provided the much needed balance between the top and the pants. It was definitely a good call to avoid any neck pieces with such heavy ensemble. However the rest of styling felt a bit dated and left a bit more to be desired. Also it was a pity how that model carried that outfit.
ALI XEESHAN’s JAGEERDARI: Lets face it, If its Ali Xeeshan its bound to be kitschy and it is gonna make you squirm in your place. Suprisingly!! Xeeshan gives us a very muted and brocade based collection. However it is his acidic turn in bridal that caught my attention. The ensemble worn by Aamna Ilyas, might has possible Sabyasachi influences (he does high contrast in embroidery and similar motifs too), but what is interesting is how Xeeshan makes it his own with interesting interplay of placement of the motif and the brave use of color. While no one in their right mind would think of pairing them, these would. While many may argue the wear ability of this, trust me, these will be the first ones to be snagged up. Brides have started to venture out of the traditional and do want to be remembered for their unconventional choices and bridal trousseau. Who better to go to then!!
Nomi Ansari You can either love him or hate him but you can definitely not ignore him. Nomi splashed around in his comfort zone of colourful-ness through his aptly titled collection RANG MAHAL. While his design philosophy might not be your cup of tea and you would probably not wear the color combos that he does, one has to appreciate the fact he balances all of it darn too well. Nomi has probably single handedly manoeuvred brides into experimenting with different colors for their events. My pick from his collection had to be this white anarkali with poppy colored motifs and embroidered sleeves. The colors off set brilliantly on that white and those sleeve just compliment the bodice and and balances the embroidered motifs. While I loved the oversized nathni and traditional styling, which from looks of it was quite finely detailed, I was not too keen on his use of prints for the dopatta.
Asifa and Nabeel: Ever since the bridal week began, I was waiting for someone to present a sari with a bolero jacket blouse. Asifa and Nabeel’s presentation might one of the safer ones in terms of its theatrics and clothes, but there is no denying that these designers present well finished product on the ramp. The white on white embroidered sari with mukesh work all over it, cut a pretty darn good picture on the ramp. The beige jacket white handworked details on the front with white embroidery and a white blouse and statement earrings, made for one delectable picture worthy moment for their collection. While the fit of the blouse may be a bit off from the neckline, it was one hell of an elegant ensemble.
P.S. It was a choice between a black sherwani for women and the sari.
Sana Safinaz: The bridal collection by Sana Safinaz ensured whispers from the crowd as the deserving one for the coveted finale. And why not since they had a brilliant presentation at their disposal! However it was the finale piece of the collection that came to my notice while I was watching that show, that affirmed the powerhouse these ladies were. While they showed a variety of contemporary n traditional silhouette, this one in particular with floor grazing jacket, high waist churidaar pants and the draped dopatta presented that one modern bride that was definitely in the making. While women do opt for the usual shararas and ghararas, here was a bride in all its splendour in churidaars, looking as sophisticated as she could be. The matt gold adds a certain elegant aura to the whole ensemble and the fact that it is monotone with handworked details and textures worked upon it, makes it one of my favourite uber chic bridal ensembles from the fashion week.
Kamiar Rokni: All hail Kami! His collection Orientalist steps out of the relam of the eastern couture i.e. bridals and gives us ensembles that echoed his theme. In doing so he gives us what he promises and in turn questions the traditional bride to explore other cultures rather than playing around up in her own. While many may argue the wearability of these ensembles, where would one experiment if not the ramp. Drawing upon asia inspirations, Kami’s collection was a delight. However it was this opening piece, a well finished and rather well stitched jumpsuit in white that set the tone of the whole show, is my pick. The impeccable fitted flared jumpsuit was styled perfectly to a T. The Kimono inspired sleeves were embroidered with chinosoire motifs along with the back and was just the right length grazing the ground. Possibly in silk, like all pieces in the collection, this too was styled in accordance with the outfit. Interesting move to keep the hands bare!! A bit a of suggestive manner may be
Sania Maskatiya: As her collection wasn’t traditionally inclined, it did give us some really fun silhouettes. While there were some fit issues that were evident, Sania did have a decent presentation. However it was this tunic from the collection that caught quite a few eyes (she was wearing it on the red carpet the next day). While I am not too convinced on that tone of gold for pants, the ari embroidered tunic with its interesting silhouette and the depicted scenery makes it to the list. What is interesting is, while scenery on clothes, a very Indian tradition, Sania takes it uo and twists it around on a white canvas with colors to give it that contemporary vibe for prospective bridesmaids. The length too is unconventional and that is what I liked about it. Easy and chic, this one was definitely one of eye catching moments.