Primarily a film festival, and it should be respected as such, Cannes in the past few years has notoriously become one of the highlight in the annual calendar due to its glitzy red carpet. Hwever, Cannes this time around was rather a less dramatic affair…. what is with red carpet events this year… however regular fashionistas gave us moments that were definitely worth watching what they would wear next on the red carpet. From Sonam Kapoor to Julianne Moore… even Katrina Kaif made her debut at the red carpet at this edition of Cannes. There were some fun brilliant moments and some missteps but our fashionistas did their best and rocked every thing they donned…. Read the rest of this entry »
Do yourself a favor and just look at the collection…
There is a reason I am a fan of Sabyasachi’s much more contemporary looks and interpretations and Sabyasachi’s pret line Sabyasachi by Sabyasachi is a testament to that why. This people is what looks like a retro boho chic collection done right to pitch perfection looks like. Sabyasachi opened the Lakme fashion week with a bang that only he can. The scale, the setting at the mill and the disco laser lights all contributed to a somewhat an epic saga to the seventies.
The boho luxe collection was one of the best I have seen from the man and one can see why. The striped crop tops, the floral prints, the full skirts, the jumpsuits,even the menswear all came together for a seventies collection that paid ode to the bollywood queens of seventies Parveen Babi and Zeenat aman. The slinky sequined dresses, the floaty boho dresses, print-on-print flared pants and shirts, crystallized louche tunics, the bling was definitely on a high note playing tribute to the nightclubs and party scene of the seventies. The leather belts with lion motif on saris and dresses, the retro shades, the slick back hair, the collection that was styled to perfection also threw in a couple of sporty references within with numbered dresses that surprisingly did not look out of place (and reminded me of Tom Ford). The print on print menswear was one I have been lusting after since last season and this year he amped up the quotient with suits, bandhgalas, waistcoats worn over print on print churidar and tunic (I have tried that but not with the same prints). Many (read each) piece was bang on nailed perfectly and added to the whole colllection be it the basic seperates of the whole dress. One of the black dresses with red lining and paired up with printed pants, the gold shoes and accenting shoes on men, the mint green sequined dress are definitely worth the mention. The half and half pants, the fiery red floral pieces all just were literally effing good. Though I hated the slipper effect on men but just a minor glitch. Aiming at the younger audience, this has to be Sabyasachi’s most commercial pret collection ever.
While I still do miss the artsy Sabya from the heydays of his Frida Kahlo sensibilities, (it is still there), fashion ultimately is a business and he has grown as a designer by leaps and bounds becoming a movement towards textiles within his own right. While this collection is more closer to his earlier works than his traditional couture endeavors, one would definitely make comparasions. But obviously the evolution is going to spill over to the artsy him but the amalgamation of the two is what was presented here. Even within his va va voom glam outing there is a certain quirk of sensibilities that does shine through (more so than his recent outings) and that is what I was so happy about!! the return of the earlier Sabyasachi.
And even more why I love the collection, check out the Harpers Bazaar Shoot by Tarun Khiwal
*Show Images by Sagar Ahuja
I know I know it is coming too late in the day but moving to a new city and settling in does take time and blogging along with studying is definitely not a piece of cake.. but am gonna try to juggle the two. While ever so often I do miss the Sabyasachi of the lore, we have now come to expect what Sabyasachi has to offer when he is going to do a show. Sheer couture worked upon crafted works. The guy just belts out collections with similar vibe but different themes, all laboriously worked upon so much so one can’t well remain without being in awe of his clothes. This time around, Sabyasachi looked towards the muslim cultures, embroideries and particularly Ferozabad. Working upon specifically zardozi embroidery and thread, one got to see quite the mirage of traditional silhouettes in pastel and subdued tones that were sort of an extension from his last showing embroidered with striking contrasts at occasions.
However trust him to keep things interesting while working within that particular silhouettes. From conservative to bold plunging statement necklines to belted dopattas (one of the features that he has come up with that I loved in his last showing too). He never ceases to surprise his audience keeping them hungry for more. While many do feel the guy is stuck with the traditional statement looks and exquisite craftsmanship, one does tend to see episodes of contemporary take on that integrated through the collection. Ssaris, kurtas, ghararas, lehengas, coats, peplum jackets and sleeved blouses all his signature layering made appearances on the ramp. If you see the video closely, a sari with an off white sari with a thin red border and worked up embroidered striking palloo was minimal chic at its best.
Also this time around his menswear captured much more attention than his womenswear. Now he has been doing this sort of menswear for a while now, but this time around, Sabyasachi went all out to make bold statement suits and ensembles. Benarasi bandhgalas, hand-block printed breeches, hand-block printed khadi shirts, patchwork blazers, sleeveless Nehru jackets embellished with 18 carat gold buttons made appearances on the ramp. Floral suits as well as separates permeated through the collection were eye catching and definitely went on my lust list for sure…. And yea I would rock the hell outta that floral suit. And I absolutely loved those 18th century floral pants. Yes Mr Sayasachi, I am definitely keeping an eye on what he comes up with next in that department.
One of the key features of a Sabyasachi Show is also his presentation and this time around the whole set was designed as an interior of a luxury train with vintage elements yet modern royal giving the whole collection a perfect backdrop. The whole presentation seemed like a theatre in motion.. (watch video below). I wish I had better images, but being away from the place, I have to resort to what is available on the internet. Get on this train baby!!
*Images belong to their respective owners
Hours after Sabyasachi’s collection’s pictures were released, me and a fellow blogger, Amara, and Sabyasachi fans, were drooling over every couture piece that walked down the runway on the first day of PCJ Delhi Couture week. Aptly titled OPIUM, it was pretty much the fashion indulgence that I had been waiting for a while.
Set against the backdrop of an interior of a Haveli, The shrubs, plants, pots and chandeliers along with sinks, vintage mirrors and wallpaper, Sabyasachi, like his last show, paid meticulous attention to detail to the setting of the presentation that he made. Details such as empty glass bottles against ornate mirror frames added to the old world charm of the designer’s 1920′s inspired collection. While last year, he was the finale designer, this time around he opened the fashion week. Though for me the order in the couture show does not matter as such coz seeing Sabyasachi’s show, it could well be passed off as finale too.
Possibly his most glam collection to date in terms of sparkles and sequins, it was all glitz and glam all out the Sabya way. Sabyasachi kept his palette muted and neutral leading a very vintage chime to the collection. The Interweaving of thread embroidery with sequins, added a certain extra dimension to the clothes. While embellishments included hand embroidery of ari, tari and tara, overlapping gold sequence work, known as ‘kachra’ work, applique, zardosi, tilla work and old fashioned crewel embroidery, Fabrics ranged from khaadi, tulle, loads of lace as well as prints.
The silhouettes ranged from bandhgalas, sherwanis, short tops, garaaras, flapper jackets, flapper coats, duster coats, peplum tops, mughal coats, to kurtas, lehengas and variation of sarees. What I liked about this collection also was he didn’t restrict himself to the eastern silhouettes and in giving that variety, reminded me of the early sabyasachi silhouettes that I fell in love with. A special like to the head to toe print looks for men and a brown sherwani paired with a print pajama and that embroidered shawl was brilliant
The designer also used vintage jewellery from a jeweller in Hyderabad. There were personal pieces, old antique pieces, and a lot of collectibles from the 1800-1900s.
The makeup was done by Mickey Contractor consisting of nude tones and lips and smoky eyes.
For all those people who exclaimed.’its all bling’ well to quote Sabyasachi, ‘Bling sells and I’d be stupid not to sell it’ , the problem usually that comes with the bling factor is it tends to cross the lines of being garish and tacky. It is however upto the designer how to go about it according to their design aesthetic and Sabyasachi does the brilliant act of balancing it all out perfectly with his white, nude and blush tones with the perfect kick of shimmer along. Picking out one would be not fair or to quote Amara.’ I could just live in Sabyasachi’s pieces’ I couldn’t agree more.
Images courtesy: Stylemeindia, makeupandbeauty.com, viral bhayani and Sabyasachi’s facebook page
P.S. I will be reviewing those shows only that caught my attention (for good or bad)
Look 1: Joining the esteemed jury of Cannes Film festival this year was Vidya Balan. With the help of friend and designer Sabyasachi, who made sure that whatever he represents of the country has to be cultural and about fabric rather than bling bling, Vidya put forth her best foot forward at the Jury lunch arriving at the Martinez Hotel. The simplistc maroon lehenga with a minimally embellished blouse gives all the limelight to the textural khaadi which one can spot on vidya. Carrying the understated look with ease, she attracted the paparazzi. The Maroon lehnga and full sleeved blouse were paired with a black embroidered dupatta which nicely offsetted with it. Finishing off with a watch, jhumkis from The House of Surana and a potli bag, Vidya Balan surely worked that outfit. The middle parting and braid were the perfect hair for this look which she pulled off with aplomb.
Look 2: For the Jury Photocall, the actress went a very indian aristocratic look. With her hair tied in a bun, Vidya opted for a white handwoven Sari with a gold border from Sabyasachi’s Save the Sari campaign. The actress paired the sari with a black high neck full sleeved chiffon blouse with leaf motifs hand emroidered on shoulders and a buttoned down straight at the back. She completed her look in a severe mid parted hair and a neat bun. She rounded off her look with a chanel clutch, gold earings, string beads and a watch. Blowing off everyone that shes monotonous, the second look was experimental while within her comfort zone
Look 3: Now this is where she faltered. With the kind of body structure Vidya has, draping of the dopatta combined with the blush pink lehenga, made her look stocky and short. The blouse consisted of a black bodice with white embroidered sleeves. Though the jewellery was the kind of a timeless piece created exclusively for her by Amarapali, it did not help her much in salvaging the look. Looked like this wasn’t a night for Indians to shine on the red carpet since Mr. Bachchan faltered too (more on that later), making Sonam Kapoor the only Indian saving grace on the red carpet
Look 4: Redeeming herself the next day itself, Vidya attended the Juene and Jolie Premiere in a matt gold/beige sari with a gold and squined borders, paired with maroon full sleeved and high neck (again) blouse with embroidered sleeves. Her hair were styled into a severe mid parting and finished off with a bun. However it was her nath (nose ring) that garnered all the attention. After Sonam Kapoor, Vidya too decided to sport this major micro trend on the red carpet. The traditional nath gelled in well with her other gold accessories, and those sapphire beads provided the perfect pop of color breaking the earthy monotony of the ensemble. Carrying the embroidered potli bag, Vidya looked at ease with this look.
Look 5: Hopping between the premieres of Bombay talkies and Inside Llewyn Davis was Vidya Balan in probably one of my fav looks of her in her Cannes run. The Mehndi/olive colored handwoven tusser silk Sari with a bright pallu was right up her alley. Paired with a round neck ,giving a breathing space in the whole ensemble, full sleeved maroon blouse, Vidya’s hair changed too, to a much more looser and relaxed bun. Finishing up with a potli bag and just oversized earings without the necklace was a very wise move that worked in her favor as the makeup too was good on this day and worked brilliantly.
Look 6: Channelling her inner Gayatri Devi look, Vidya came the closest to the legend (she could now officially play the biopic :P) in this floral printed red Sari with and embroidered border. Red is usually not a good color with the fear one might blend into the red carpet, however she pulls this one off. Accessorizing her look with a watch, pearl strings, pearl drop earings and a chanel clutch, Vidya looked very much the inspiration Sabyasachi had. However it was the hair that was a sort of downer here. The loose upped bun aged the actress far more than her years.
Look 7: Vidya definitely did not finish off with much bang ( I personally wanted her to go for that fierce green lehenga that I saw in the preview Vogue did of her outfits at Cannes). However having said that she did a pretty impressive job at the closing ceremony. Probably the best hair during her run was this one. The side lock and loosely done braid was the perfect look for this two colored floor length anarkali. Wearing the black collared and full sleeved embroidered anarkali in black and olive/grey, Vidya added the glam via the matt gold sequined dopatta that she draped casually over her arms. Accessorizing the look with jhumkis and embroidered Sabyasachi purse, Vidya bid adieu to her jury duties
Lunch Looks: During Cannes I also saw Vidya in three looks (cant find the third picture), where in the jury spends time together and basically hangs out, chills and enjoys the perks. For this Vidya once went for a white cotton sari with black blouse, A maroon print sari with a maroon blouse and a red kurta that she paired with black elephant pants. She kept these looks sans jewellery and sometimes sans makeup too (all that dressing up would take a toll on anyone)
She had more hits than misses and definitely did not reduce the sari to a costume rather elevated it to be just a regular garment that had potiential to be as casual or formal depending on the occassion.