The second fashion week of the season, The fashion week from Lahore had quite a few interesting collection that did explore the fun and business sides of fashion. The collections both by debutantes and established designers definitely had people sit up and take notice how pret is evolving within fashion. While there were a few that stuck to the formulaic commercialism, others did dare to venture out, pushing the envelope and making a damn point.
Day 2 of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion week was quite eventful in terms of fashion. From theatrics to experimental shapes to just plain fun, it was quite the ride without a false note in context to keeping the audience hooked onto the presentations.
Kicking things off on Day 1, Fashion Pakistan Week begun with the usual fervor with designers, Shehla Chatoor, Sania Maskatiya, Gulabo, Ayesha Hashwani, Tena Durrani, Hisham Malik and Sana Safinaz showcasing their luxury and high end collections.
Can only do so much
High street brand like Levis while introducing its products does not veer away from what it is. Even bringing on stylists like Rana and Ayaz, who can only do so much, Introducing yet another denim, Levis kept the look and feel of the show their usual self. Read the rest of this entry »
The recently concluded Fashion Week had quite a few moments… some good many uh oh they didn’t . With its title sponsors as Telenor, the Fashion Pakistan Week, even though managed to pull off a fashion week, had a moments few and far in between. A stringent screening of collections would have helped and narrow things down to a much more gratifying fashion week.
The thing about Nida Azwer is that when she restrains herself to a limited color palette, she scores major brownie points within the pretty arena. Kicking off the fashion week, Nida went her usual pretty route with a french trellis inspired collection that rested on a neutral and metallic color palette with some very pretty embroidered treatments. Like I said earlier about Nida… She will never do NOT PRETTy Read the rest of this entry »
Though we keep having designers of both countries showcasing at Bridal Asia, for the first time for a mainstream fashion week, designers from Pakistan were invited to showcase at the Lakme Fashion Week a/w 2014.
Sorry but I am tired of rizwan beyg showcasing similar collection. While I may like the use of truck art using it again and again in similar vein, wears off its novelty. For reviews on his previous showcasing go here or here of collections he showcased in PFDC sunsilk fashion weeks
Going the japanese way, Sania made her foray onto the mainstream Indian Fashion week through her signature prints inspired by the Japanese murals and paintings and culture with her ‘Sakura’ collection. While I did like some of the prints especially ones that included signature prints of Japanese mural style of drawings, and the cherry blossoms, the plot seemed to waiver as the collection progressed. Sania elicited a mixed response, I for one, have definitely seen her do better. Saw a few repititions, but overall Sania managed to put forward quite a chic collection that was styled well. Crop tops, slinky and bloused tunics and high waisted tailored pants (my fav ones), possibly the best of the three designers that showcased at the fashion week. While there were a few beaded, not so good, elements involved.. she did manage to pull it off quite well.
When you are showcasing at a prêt week, it just eludes me why would you want to showcase kaam-waale-joray that ventured into the shaadi territory. Zara Shahjahan in her attempt to present at the Lakme fashion week did just that. Her clothers aimed at being inspired from Lahore and its culture. Playing up with the elements of sheer, handworked details and vintage prints Zara Shahjahan’s collection was hardly anything that made an impact considering the line up she was amongst on day 1. The collection even for her own standards seemed a bit bridalesque rather than high end luxury. From ghararas and shararas to printed jumpsuits, tunics to straight pants and crop top she did present a range. A not that sorry but a sherwani-esque tunic with an extra flared sharara had no business being together if the fit was completely off .. a brilliant example of what tarun talihani did 5 years back.. or was it rohit bal.. and did it brilliantly. A major issue were the seams and finishings that needed attention ( I mean come on!!) .In palette of pastels, this was most likely an opportunity wasted on the designer’s part whom we all know has so much potential.
Wish Faiza Samee had shown at the fashion week.
*Image credits: The LFW Team
Sania Maskatiya has imprinted herself in the minds of almost every woman I know of. Those who don’t own her, want to, and those who do, they just continue to want more. The young firebrand with her brother has developed such a client that is growing by leaps and bounds every day. Building upon her strengths, Sania seems to have master the art of using prints in ensemble esp. print on print. Sania has always been associated with taking inspiration but playing it safe with geometric shapes and patterns that work well with the imagery. The collection titled Kuamka: The Awakening saw Sania steer the brand towards a new direction towards the African regions.
In a pleasant surprising turn of events, Sania took on a kitschy route in this collection of hers with bold splashes of color and imagery in prints that form the mainstay of her collection. The fun kitschy prints in brave strokes were paired with black and white patterns. One of the pieces went onto have big black woman right on the front with some embellished detail on her to highlight details right in your face. Loved it. Though a couple of pants did have a print converging in but thankfully it missed the crotch point. Though the collection had quite a few print tunics and pants (the woman has mastered the art of print on print and has a clientele eating out of her hand), I was glad that she moved on to experiment with interesting streamlined silhouettes, tailored lowers, cropped and peplum tops.
I loved the fact that Sania took a fresh approach towards presenting a collection considering her recent past collections have had started to fit into a mould of sorts, moving towards monotonous image of the brand. Going kitschy without losing her signature style of sorts and keeping it luxury pret is no mean feat.
However Sania’s foray into menswear left me a bit confused and on the fence. While they seemed a bit tad dated, the big fold up cuff at the hem of the pants was quite a turnoff (yes the size of the cuff matters specifically when its printed). While I did like the cheeky Monkey printed waistcoat and the bandhgala (both made it to my picks see below), The fit of the first suit was completely off with assymetric lapels with a same printed collar did not go down well with me. The tiger jacket that Umair Tabani, the business savvy brother of Sania, and admin head at the brand, was sporting the next day was intriguing but was held in hand during the presentation and couldn’t be seen.
My picks: the dolman sleeve long snug tunic, the tailored pants and crop top, the BIG BLACK woman on front… sista! that top is sure to bring out sass in any woman (the kind Mindy had in the movie THE HELP 😉 ) , the colorful jacket with black and top and white on white printed pants, the cheeky monkey grid waistcoat and the embroidered bandhgala
*Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly … and me
NICKIE NINA‘s Whole Collection
Nickie Nina’s whole collection: Nickie Nina’s latest offering at PLBW offered nothing much exciting in terms of bridal wear. While the collection titled GARDEN PARTY comprised of outfits in a pastel and reds colors, the monochrome did not offer much in terms of silhouette. The safe collection at points had me going, ‘yeah! Those facebook ‘designer’ aunties can make similar stuff’ , and thus was pretty much a disappointment. The collection was lacklustre and failed to make any impact.
Saai or rather .. *Sigh*….Seher Atif… that was all I could muster up after I saw the tie and dye cacophony on the ramp that had me questioning the bridal wear. The collection started off with these tie and dye pieces that had me going WHY??? And NO pairing THAT tie and dye with golden does not make it cross over in the bridal category. The collection later moved onto hand worked details with the similar color palette of reds, blues and gold. The OTT styled more than marred the already damaged collection and while I did notice the use of KIRAN (a gold frill finishing) but was done so strangely on the tie and dye dopatta that it made it look more rustic than luxe (no problems with going rustic but trying to make it weirdly luxe is )
Sonia’s angels: Emulating Victoria’s secret like wings doesn’t make your presentation as good. Sonia Azhar’s collection definitely revoked a response, but not the good kind. The collection comprised of traditionally tried n tested silhouette albeit some with bad fittings. A few motifs were questionable and the oversized Givenchy-esque earings along with the wings made for an unnecessary drama to the clothes that were not substantial enough on their own. If similar amounts of efforts would have been put in designing the clothes as much as creating those wings, it would have been somewhat better. The last outfit though, totally disconnected from the collection, however was better of them all
Deena’s misses: Where Deena scored in her higher hemmed tunics and tops, and her brilliantly minimalistic styling, she dipped in some areas too. While the off shoulder long tunics and blouses she did in the way she did were reminiscent of the nineties and bollywood, the stiff fabric for the sari was rather an unwise choice. However it was the last outfit that was the deal breaker for me. The finale outfit with its velvet choli and stiff drape came across as sloppy and rather an unpolished look. Furthermore the stiff fabric didn’t make for a good, what seemed like, hybrid of a gharara and a skirt.
Elan Makes a Boo boo: While there has been a hue and cry about the Elan going the Manish Malhotra route, with some calling it an inspiration while others accusing her of plagarization. Let’s get down the record straight. While both the countries may share roots, Elan chose to utilize a similar motif even the same placement for the motif as Manish, if one had to use a trend and has seen it around, one does need to change it up to different silhouettes (case in being ali xeeshan who changed it up quite a bit). That aside, Elan’s presentation was not really one of the impressive ones on the ramp. The silhouettes were pretty much non experimental and stuck to traditional, safe, tried and tested route. The use of flowers as accessories added to my woes and struck a wrong note.
Sania Missed out: While Sania Maskatiya scored on the use of seperates and some pretty interesting silhouettes, there were quite a few issues in some pieces that this tilism could not charm the way out of. The opening piece with its magenta colored sharara (liked the concept of seperates) was at an odd fitting around the crotch. With a color that noticeable and fabric like that, the fittings (yes the cardinal sin in my books) needed to be done. Furthermore a black and white layered piece with a cape and the front motif was definitely ageing. It is rare to get black and white wrong (case in being sana safinaz) but Sania somehow managed to do so. Not one of her brightest moments. Also a pair of palazzos with an embroidered tube top that seemed like a transition from her luxury prêt to bridal, seemed at odds at fittings around the hip and more so made for a foil like effect at the lower body ( I dream of jeanie deja vu), and a motif on the lower backside of one of the outfits (nuff said!!) . Having said one has to give to Sania to step out of the usual bridal comfort zone.
The recently held TDAP fashion showcase, under Rabia Javeri, had a host of designers strutting their stuff down the ramp. The well edited fashion lineup was quick and the shows back to back, since the collections were capsule collections. Quite an amount of foreign buyers made their way to the fashion show and apparently many a good deals have been struck with the designers with invitations to showcase in Athens to Paris. However the mainstay what it boils down to is that whether these designers can back up their style with enough production substance to fulfil the orders…because at the end of the day it is a business that needs to be run.
RIZWAN BEYG ‘s RANG: The collection was same as what he showcased at PFDC (review here) earlier this year, with a few added menswear pieces. The collection still had me going adding more pieces from the collection on my wishlist. Still on a lookout for this yummyness on the retail front.
NOMADIC FAIZA: Faiza Samee is one veteran designer who has pretty much surprised everyone with her luxury pret shows. Her latest outing was inspired by Nomadic tribes featuring prints inspired by them. Sharp colors combined with an array of earthy tones and tunics with print on print in silks, Faiza seems to be on a winning spree. The designer usually known for her bridals, Faiza certainly has the perfect sensibility to translate her aesthetics onto pret wear. With a line of lawn under her kitty, apart from experience, the veteran is not alien to the concept and knows the pulse of her audience well. Can she deliver? I do not see why its impossible. LOVED IT. However her dramatic choreography could have been done away with for a much more in sync showing.
Karachakring TAPU: We never get tired of tapu’s prints even though have seen them before. But the foreign buyers haven’t so its all good. Sucker for good prints to be presented in a multitude of ways (thats me!) I enjoyed the chic showing of the show which had me and a fellow blogger Maliha drooling over the opening piece’s sequined bronze jacket. Roping Wardha Saleem, the duo presented a multitude of chic ensembles along with printed bags complimenting them. Hitting home with sleek n chic printed pieces, the neatly filed presentation hit home on many counts. From dresses, tunics, fun separates, Wardha made full use of flaunting those prints. Whats more its the accessories will be available in select multi brand stores.
PIFD: The presentation of PIFD students included an array of different young ones making their debut on the runway. While I do understand their need to showcase, a trade show probably wasn’t the best place since the collections are much more conceptual and rather dramatic. While the collections were fun, brilliant and barring one, all were edgy in their conceptual outing. Loved quite a few of them, many fierce ones to the brilliantly styled and layered, these students ensued whistles from the crowd. Many had potential to trickle down to a much wearable and sellable potentia. It is now waited to be seen how they come out as their own person in the big bad world of fashion.
FARNAZ MUSTAFA: One of the two designers on Day 1 who had everyone uninterested much on what she had to offer on the ramp. While she may have been inquired about by a buyer (yes she does have a market she caters to), it was a pretty much not an impressive showing. Roaming around the territory of evening wear, one of the two garments that I found interesting were one being a pitta work (am a fan of the technique) and other being this pair of sequined bronze pants. However they were paired with such an ill fitting top, it had me claw my eyes out. Same was the case with many others. Sorry but there are no excuses for being a designer and give bad fittings.
HAZAN-ed: Sania Maskatiya’s latest outing Hazan continued her obsession with the Islamic motifs and geometric prints. Sania seems to pick up her inspirations a lot from the Muslim majority countries, playing upon their cultures and churning out contemporary garments be it the persian AGHAZ or the turkish LOKUM. While for many of us it seemed the same ole same ole that sania had been presenting, from slouched tunics, tops and jackets, it was definitely lapped up by the foreign clients. A pair of black and white high waisted print pants definitely caught my attention. As far as the prints go, apart from her usual softer palette, a contrasting and sharp colored palette seemed to be the order of the day paired up with black and white. While the usual print on print might be getting a bit stale (even though that’s sort of become her signature but need to come up with another trend or play up prints differently), it is waited to be seen what this brand has next up its sleeve. Whats more is that Sania seems to have mastered the journey of from runway to retail pretty effortlessly.
BARE ESSENTIALS: The other disappointment of the night was probably Zaheer Abbas. The designer associated with impeccable finishing and collections faltered this time around. Why would you show something to the foreign buyers that they could already find in their homeland. While Zaheer’s FPW London too had casual western silhouettes,, that was a much better constructed n well put together collection. Yes you are trying to expand your market and showcasing there to appeal to their taste and break into that arena, but u need to give them something extra too what they can’t find there. The silken collection in solids of red, green and black failed to stir any impact. A hiccup once in a while is allowed therefore shall let this one pass.
BLACK n WHITE : Sana Safinaz showing was an extension of their Veet collection (review here) sans the boobie pieces and a few interesting added drapes. While one did spot a balmain grid (yet again!!), the rest of the collection was pretty much on the mark. What is good with Sana Saf is that, they can back it up with the production ever since they have stepped into retail.
Images belong to their respective owners