Sabyasachi Mukherjee once said that the costumes should never overpower the character and actor. It should meld in so seamlessly that you should hardly notice the clothes. And if the actors are not present, the clothes should be able to tell that narrative within a scene. While many bollywood movies do employ designers, sometimes it is important to have the character take centrestage than the designer. There were some gems in 2015 that did just that. Read the rest of this entry »
HSY’s latest collection titled sher collaborated with an NGO working towards welfare of education of girls and women empowerment. Incorporating crafted skills of these women into the collection, HSY should be applauded for his initiative and 20 years in the business. However did the collection deliver? In most parts yes! But wasn’t without flaws.
Employing crafted skills of women from Shergarh, HSY’s collection featured a multitude of patterns embroidered and printed, usually ones falling under the umbrella of Islamic patterns and sub continental motifs. These included geometric patterns as well as paisley and floral vines and motifs. The collection that was heavy on embroidery and print. From fully embroidered and appliquéd to embroidery done on sheer fabrics, plain and juxtaposition with printed fabric, he pretty much explored a diverse range in his presentation. Using browns, teals, reds, yellows, indigo and beiges, he kept his tones earthy…a far departure from HSY we saw earlier in FPW going all out dark glam or his usual signature.
As far as silhouettes go, seeing his last few luxury prêt collections, he took a 180 degree turn to present a very…so to speak…a ‘pakistani’ collection. The silhouettes were a far cry from the silhouettes that we are used to seeing from him. Presenting menswear and womenswear, he had quite an array on display. There were kurtas, flared pants, shalwars, sherwanis, waistcoats, straight pajamas, flared tuncs, straight tunics, churidaars, saris, jumpsuits, floor lengths .. phew! I even spotted a pair of overalls. The collection made heavy use of organza, georgettes and silks through which he played on sheer layering, varying lengths and looser silhouettes.
However I was not quite on board with the styling… the extra high spiralled braid with a paranda, wasn’t my cup of tea and felt too ‘punjabi’ to put it cultural terms. The collection which should appeal to the city crowd felt a wee bit too desi gaaon-ki-gori with that. Also many of the embroidery placements though commercial and sellable were expected of sorts. The high low hemline kurta felt funny with its drooping sides, some of the crushed flared long tunics seem a little dated since we just dusted our hands off them a few seasons ago.
Loved the men’s kurta’s…and especially that shalwar on the model leading the pack was fun. The straight pajama in this one was done to perfection ending just at the right length, the overalls with sherwani were a quirky way, the layered flared pants were fun, the sleek panelled tunic worked because of that plain middle panel providing that break, the high waisted flared pants went all out with patterns and loved it for that and the sari with the jacket was one of my fav looks.
He ended the collection with an inspiring speech, giving out a social and patriotic message. With so many feathers in his cap, it wouldn’t hurt to add one more of standing up in next elections now would it?
P.S. A note of thanks to team at Lotus for their timely efforts. From pictures to seating to press kits, they nailed it like always. The team at Golin Haris, my bloggers in crime, keeping me company virtually or in person, and everyone who actually reads the individual reviews that I keep writing (though I am planning to change it up)…Thank you.