From crowd favorites to award frontrunners to indie movies, 2016 closed on a high note with movies with some amazing costumes becoming one with the characters sporting them. Informing the characters with fashion choices through the physical self and externalizing it with fashion choices Read the rest of this entry »
For a fashion awards night it was ironic as to how many usually-well-turned-up-on-red-carpet people, had quite the opposite effect. Many turned heads on the red carpet and not for the right reasons failing to impress anyone that saw them, and here I thought Black was the most safest color. From capes on dresses to odd ( and not the good kind) dresses and gowns it was pretty much a catastrophe. While the British Fashion Awards 2015 in partnership with Swarovski did miss last year’s sass, however not everyone was a lost cause and some of the red carpet appearances did kick some serious ass!! My highlight of the night: Jonathan Anderson winning both Menswear and Womenswear designer for 2015.
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House Of Holland
No one was more happy than me when Henry Holland announced his menswear debut. Whenever Henry used to step out in one of his own, I always used to wish that he ventured into menswear…and now.. Yayyeee!!! It is almost EXACTLY like I would have imagined Henry Holland menswear would be bringing his fun colorful sensibilities that we are used to within his menswear. The cheeky text Read the rest of this entry »
I know … I know I was meant to review the collections from LCM and I know its pretty late in the day. But my apologies for that. For those who don’t know LCM is London Collection: Men, a fashion week dedicated solely to Menswear. Designers especially those in London do make it a point to have a presentation. While this time around the Fashion Week was a bit low key, needless to say it wasn’t without it’s major high points.
Tom Ford deems it extremely difficult to change up evening wear menswear, one challenge that he triumphs everytime he ventures into a presentation of menswear. While it was not a runway show for him at LCM, Tom Ford has made it a point of showcasing his outfits through a personal appointment, primarily because of counterfiet. His collection, undoubtedly was sexy and a straight up nod to the sixties with optical illusions and patterns in a black and white palette. Successfully combining leather with evening wear as well as playing up on jackets with the shearling trend (you’d be surprised at the amount of designers who showcased this 70s trend) for upcoming winters in the northern hemisphere, Tom ford’s collection was visually stunning and immaculately made. From tailored fits to oversized coats with drainpipe pants, he nailed his latest outing for AW15.
Never the one afraid to make a statement, Christopher Shannon’s latest offering seemed more like a social comment on the social standing of many people struggling to make ends meet. From taglines of Save me and Broke with trash adorned as headgear and some interpretation of garments as st-ripped plastic bag coming apart at seams, the collection made an observational comment on the conditions of the not so elite population. He combined the trash with loads of sportswear references. Oversized, Ripping apart or Cinched at waist (yes his corsets did make it to the runway), his collection hinted at the irony of speaking up for those who wouldn’t be able to afford it, while being expensive within its commerce. We don’t get to see much of these statements on runway these days let alone for menswear.
The chic set, the live singer and a modern approach, the Burberry brand under Christopher Bailey has come quite a long way. This time around with a chic boho vibe to the collection, Burberry’s presentation within closed walls and indoors was a picture of luxe approach that the brand is known for. The Classically Bohemian collection hit quite a few high notes esp. for me since it was somewhat I personally like. Part boho, part chic, the pieces were relaxed, the silhouettes slightly upsized and with a generous amount of accents and pops within the ensemble. Rich tones, printed accents, fringed shawls (that green look was a-mazing) all came together for an outing of glam with a bohemian twist. Heck he even did leopard well in some of the garments (and no I still am not personally inclined towards leopard print… ever… unless done extremely well). From print on print to model sporting mirror worked shirts and scarves, this was one well travelled urban gypsy that made waves on the runway. However even in his Bohemian outing, Bailey’s twist on classics does lean on it too to provide that offset a perfect grounding to make that impact. What I liked… solids paired with prints, printed seperates, the green suited look with luxurious fringed shawl…pretty much almost everything
The design team at Topman knows their commercial game all too well that they send down the runway a whole journey of looks covering a wide base of range that could later be trickled down in their stores. They know you need to amp it up for the runway and they do it how. Going the Bombay Rollers theme, the collection’s sixties theme was pretty evident within its presentation. With the psychedelic patterns running in the backdrop, I wonder if they went on a bit of Dum Maaro Dum journey… heehehe. The collection with its coming together of silhouettes from opposing ends of the world came together from capes and jacket to hippie prints. Graduating into plaid looks and shearling jackets, the Bay Rollers band inspiration played all too well within the collection. However the designers were careful not to present and overtly costumey collection. Particularly with menswear a slight alteration in fit or a centimeter or two more within that flare of hem and it would have been a disaster and that is where the brand scored. Exercising immense control over it’s ensembles, one could already see how the pieces would translate within the store as seperates. The brand held its own amongst the ‘designer’ giants with a precision and restraint that was impressive to every thread count.
Part American Hustle, Part modern day dandy, J.W.Anderson’s collection oozed a lot of 70’s with its silhouettes and presentation along with his mishmash of references from the past. From flared trousers, extra large collars, corduroy jackets to seude coats, trim shearlings on jackets and and oversized silhouettes, Anderson unapologetically borrows from past and is not afraid to display his references. From that to evoking the turn of the 19th century dandy with solid colored suits and fringed scarves, Anderson’s devil may care attitude was pretty evident in his slew of ensembles that echoed bygone eras. The one to have fun with fashion, his collection was hard to slot … a perfect setting that went with his notes of ‘a free thinker with an interest in pataphysics (a prankish pseudo philosophy)’. With an intriguing quality that is hard to achieve as a designer to leave his audience with questions and discussions who the collection was for makes up for an interesting intentional feat to achieve where there is always a margin to look amatuer or look like it was put up in last few minuntes… If one was to go by his word, he definitely did not let his audience inhabit a comfort space for too long regarding his presentation as his ensembles made their way down the runway, keeping them guessing for who it was for…a futuristic vintage man (if there is any such) maybe!!! Who’s to say!
Capturing the cenetary moment of World War I within the AW15 Collection for men, Sarah Burton at Mcqueen weaved history within fashion. With military as her reference points and all encompassing details… from epaulets to medals.. the whole hog but with a certain chic aesthetic. From jackets with boldly embroidered texts to pinstripe suits, Burton played upon the classic british uniform for men in all its glam. The poppies that were sent down the moat of Tower of London, as a remembrance, were used in abundance as a recurring motif. While I wasn’t too keen on the poppy trims that made for an ‘X’ on the models, however when rendered in silk jacquard for suits and coats for an overall effect made for a winning look. A play upon the armor with rose on the front of a three piece suit seemed to represent a sacred-ness of sorts of a protective breastplate like tiraz bands and calligraphic vests for Ottomans. It was melancholic with a dash of comment on the present times where war seems to be one of the major omnipresent thoughts.
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
Massimo Nicosia of Pringle of scotland believes in availing the opportunity of utilizing techniques both old and new (whatever he can get his hands into) within his collection. Approaching knitwear not in the usual way thus then results in an ensemble that is luxe and unusual. Manifesting design techniques and investigating into other areas, the brand pushes boundaries within knitwear construction by meshing for example 3D printing and knitting together. Be it being inspired by old tapestry, working with old looms or incorporating futuristic methods, the collection had a variety of chunky cardigans, coats, jackets in a chic avatar sent down the runway. What probably was of a personal visual interest was the fact he combined leather and knit, the clash, effortlessly within a single ensemble. Restrained and spiffy, this was definitely the modern day urban brit down the runway. My fav pieces had to be the salt n pepper cardigan and the tapestry inspired knits.
AGI & SAM
Probably one of the most talked about collection this LCM, Agi & Sam’s latest offering was one for the extremes. You either loved it or hated it. Playing upon their childhood memories, the collection was a deconstruction of their nostalgia of sorts sent down the runway which seemed to be styled such that it had its high and low moments within the short span of the presentation. Probably the most talked about pieces has to be their lego inspired head and face pieces that adorned the models. The duo known for their love for prints (definitely did not disappoint in that regards) and tailored menswear went the deconstructed route with their fall outing. Looser and wider silhouette with cropped pants dominated their collection. The prints and knits were permutations of VHS covers and prescription drug packaging that had been merged then given to children, who painted their own versions. I for one, found myself lusting after many of the pieces esp the coats. They were statement pieces that were bold, brazen and unapologetically brave… the kids definitely say the darnedest things
Harking back to traditional techniques, roots and tailoring it was all about looking in the past via a different lens than what many others did this LCM for Hardy Amies. While many looked at different eras, Mehmet Ali from Hardy Amies focused on perfecting the art with a modern outlook. Inspired by his trekking, the collection had climber’s tube rope running through the collection as a common thread. Be it as graphics on flannel or woven in. Combining tailoring and knitwear with intense layering looking impeccable and non fussy, with a nonchalant vibe in some looks. The brand looked back at its tailoring which was bang on point, impeccable and finessed to perfection in very british fabrics. Going through the tested waters, the designer used traditional, teasel-brushed wool, a more or less obsolete technique. Who said you needed to shock in order to make a statement… get yourself pieces from Hardy Amies.
Lots of color, scrabble prints, cropped pants, cheeky tees and texture was what all Kit Neale’s collection all about. A fun affair with bursty color palette, Kit Neale’s collection embraced color in its entirety. While the pork pie hats in color pop shades provided the perfect accessory, the doc martens and forest green nodded the upcoming season. With an explosive array of typographic prints, Neale’s alphabet print pants were the one’s that garnered much applause for me. However it cannot be ruled out that with his take on single breasted suit, paired with shorts in print was quite an effort to turn tradition on its head. Bomber jackets and patched typo pieces evoked a bit of 90s and in parts childlike pre-teen inspired adventure life that played wonderfully with the youthful vibe of the show. With some statement jewels showing up at occasion during the presentation, imparted a bit of a rebel vibe with a taste.
When a designer twists tailoring onto its head with an impeccable outing, you are bound to sit up and take notice. With its angled look and geometric lines, the construction by Carlo Brandelli is futuristic and contemporary while adhering to the Savile Row brand Kilgour. Playing up with the construction in its truest form, Brandelli manipulated the lapels and peaks within the traditional definition of ‘suit’ playing up with the recognizable shape and form yet giving it a futuristic edge. It is that cultural conversation of tradition versus contemporary that Brandelli seems to be wanting to explore with his set of design aesthetics with which he derived this collection. Almost wanted me to have these star in the Divergent series. Turning tradition inside out, the designer reconstructed the suit with a contemporary language that has all the potentials of turning into a modern day classic.
Following a pink precedent set by designer legends like Westwood, an ode to the british wild child of the boarding school, made up for a perfect theme for the collection. The pink short suits, blazers and jackets (striped ones were my fav), rebelliously laid back tied ties, pink shearling effect and pink constructed and ripped knits.. one of my favs was also the crumpled brown-paper-effect short suit. The pink and black collection with pink hair, biker jackets and use of leather also hinted at a nod to the punk. The Play School collection referred to the childhood nostalgia through the naively knitted oversized teddy bears that hung from models lapels and shoulders that added to drama of the pink power. The part hip, part brit and part punk collection byt the trio designers definitely made pink THE color of the season.
With an all clear or rather almost all black palette, Ada + Nik’s AW15 outing definitely gave me what I expected of the designers. With their signature design aesthetic in place, the nascent brand, with very experienced backing designers showed what possibly could be the future of the hipster look. Going for a much polished and minimal approach they kept the hip essence within the pieces with a contemporary outlook. There was a cleverness even within their strategy of keeping things simple. From tunics to bomber jackets, longline coats, biker jackets and tops in a variety of tech materials reflected an evolution of the brand’s signature outerwear. Heck they even showed the ‘Narrative Jacket’ – the world’s first leather jacket with in-built camera, in collaboration with the Narrative Clip to capture photos and location data without conscious interaction, breaking the fourth wall in the art of storytelling. Playing up with textures they used layered velvet sneaker net, showerproof tech fabrics, crease free memory cotton, sustainably intelligent cotton ribs and luxury airtex. One also got to see the oversized sweater (this trend seems to be for the keeps) looks as well as some interesting shaped pants. The NOIR DESIR collection was both statement and luxury while referencing the notion of Greco Roman meets 1970s British Punk culture. A masterclass in a constructed hipster chic look.
*Images belong to their respective owners
Dressed to the nines for the Fashion Oscars, BFAs were held at London Coliseum. While there were official winners to the categories, the Red carpet had its own share of triumphs
The style award barely ever missteps the red carpet and this was no exception. The style award winner showed how its done and why did she win that award in a white wide legged Misha Nonoo jumpsuit and stunning black Dior jacket with Christian Louboutin shoes and a quirky printed Anya Hindmarch clutch. Keeping it chic she finished it off with side swept hair and red lips for that perfect contrast in a monochromatic look.
The fierce model in a side swept hair and some smokin’ hot makeup was picture perfect in the sequined Burberry with thigh high slit. The gown with its black panels added the perfect contrast and the model of the year pulled it with aplomb. While she changed (read heated) things up for after party, even on red carpet the model’s fierce personality shone through the glam evening wear.
In a blush pink Victoria beckham dress, Anna Kendrick picked the perfect shade of metallic Christian Louboutin heels and clutch to compliment the tone of her dress. The peach perfect actress nailed the look like a pro and hit it out the ball park as well as any model but with a sophisticated twang. Finishing it off with a pulled back hair was a great move to show off her De Beers studs that let the blush number do all the talking without hogging the limelight
The quirky model always tend to bring her A game on the red carpet and Miss Chung surely did not disappoint in her silver Emilia Wickstead number. It’s all about details for this one, the tailored look, cinched waist, the collar all were present. While she accessorized with Paul Chew shoes, it was her Takeout container Charlotte Olympia clutch that provided the perfect blue quirk accent to that silver and was probably one of the most fun details and highlights of the night
The new face of the major makeup Line, Kendall has been in spotlight for more reasons than one. However for the Fashion night, the model strode in like a winner with straight hair and a strapless monochrome jumpsuit number by Emilio Pucci. The fun black back and white front was another one of the night’s monochrome look that was rounded off with a pop of red. She completed her look with a black clutch but it was the simple yet efficient mesh translucent heels that made her outfit a complete winner (the perfect footwear choice)
Charlotte Gainsborough did everything right what Ather Hafeez for Sana Safinaz did not during its presentation. In head-to-toe in LV SS’15, the actress sported a sequined mini dress with front zipper detail. Downplaying that heavy dazzle, she paired it up with the cropped leather motorcycle jacket and patent ankle booties, styling off the glam biker look perfectly. Though couple of edgy accessories wouldn’t have hurt, but just a minor gripe one can let go.
The Revenge actress surprisingly pulled an ivory tailored suit to perfection. Sporting the banana republic suit with a plunging neckline, the actress strutted her stuff like a pro, with the satin jacket a a cape. The perfect length of the trousers wins it for me (its one of the most important things). Kudos for keeping the other details simple and finishing the look with the dark lip color. Perfect for the winter night
The man is epitome of being Sharply dressed…everytime.. do I even need to say he nails it?. The shawl satin lapels with a long scarf positioned perfectly with the perfect length, Ford attended BFAs in a sharp suit.
Picking up LV veritcal striped suit for the event, Harry Styles dressed event and age appropriate and pretty much nailed it. The double breasted blazer, the boots and the buttoned down shirt sans the tie, the mod look suits him to a T. Its a look that is hippie, young and formal all together.
GARETH PUGH and CARSON MCCOLL
The couple made one of its together appearances on the red carpet of BFAs in their own statement styles. While it was Gareth’s boots that I loved coz it just complimented designer’s sass , it was his partner Mccoll’s kimono inspired quilted leather jacket that caught my attention. The jacket was unusual yet perfect for a fall red carpet outing such as this.
The actor put a spin on the conventional suit by combining multiple pieces from Burberry steering the look away from the usual look. Though the look had a relaxed vibe about it, with the oversized blazer over the checked blazer (its winter up there can you blame the guy), the look was sharp and made for a welcome change from the usual blues and black suits. The mixup was perfectly balanced with a charcoal shirt and tie paired with black trouser with that brown jacket.
In a complimenting outfit with his girlfriend, race driver Lewis Hamilton opted for a grey suit, accenting it off with burgundy details. Looking dapper with a tie and pocket square, the Formula 1 star’s accessories tied in with the former Pussycat Doll’s deep red lipstick and intricate detailing on her gown. Good move on keeping the shoes in sync with the accessories.
The English rapper hardly looked like his hippie self on the red carpet at the BFAs. The gentleman in question sported a plum Paul Smith suit that was a perfect winter color and an unusual choice for red carpet, but am always up for someone having fun with fashion and taking it up a notch. He finished off the look with black Jimmy Choos, rounding off the look just right
With his famous sky high quiff, the fun designer, as expected, put his fun twist to a formal event. Textured tweed jacket, black trouser a white shirt, the designer had to pull it altogether with that olive and blue fun blazer that pops the whole look to another level. The designer, who is never afraid of color, knows his sense of balance and pulls off his choices with aplomb. Trust Mr. Holland to bring a lil’ more fun to the party.
LIST OF WINNERS
Model of the year: Cara Delevingne
Brand of the Year : Victoria Beckham
British Style Award : Emma Watson
International Designer : Nicolas Ghesquière
Womenswear Designer of the Year: Erdem
Menswear Designer of the Year : J.W. Anderson
Emerging Womenswear Designer : Marques’Almeida
Emerging Menswear Designer : Craig Green
Emerging Accessory Designer : Prism
Red Carpet Designer : Alexander McQueen
New Establishment : Simone Rocha
Establishment : Preen
Accessory Designer of the Year: Anya Hindmarch
Special Recognition : Chris Moore
Special Recognition Award : Anna Wintour OBE
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Edward Enninful
Met Gala 2014 exhibition titled ‘Charles James: Beyond Fashion’ had the classic theme of ‘white tie and decorations’. Since women usually do tend to make an effort by incorporating the designer’s style into their wardrobe, it was men who were thrown in a toss to get ready for the big night. The classic theme had its fair share of rebels and those who went all out at the theme whole heartedly. Many designers pushed envelopes in their own styles while being inspired by the construction master in whose honor the whole exhibition was taking place. Others went very off key but its fun to see how the themes are interpreted. My picks this year (in random order):
The diva DITA VON TEESE chose the designer who has always been inspired by Charles James and known for his impeccably constructed gowns. Zac Posen had Dita Von Teese as his muse in a blush mermaid petal gown with red details merging into the red carpet. The detail being similar to that of James, Zac Posen paid homage to the construction master in his own way. Accenting it off with red details, including the red Roger Vivier clutch, and those waves, the burlesque dancer was quite the bewitching sight on the red carpet. Glamorous, thematic, experimetal, she ticked all the boxes.
Charlize Theron‘s successful run continued at the red carpet of MET. The woman has been consistently delivering one after the other good looks that are chic and MET night was no different. The Dior gown with criss cross black and white details on the side fit her like a glove. The modern take on ‘American’ elite eveningwear, the gown was perfect for the occassion while referencing James. The master stroke was the tuxedo jacket that brings in the unexpected element of the male theme into womenswear. It was hip, chic and she styled her in-between length brilliantly showing off her Fred Leighton jewels. She finished it off with jimmy choo sandals.
As a designer pushing the boundaries, in an aesthetic manner, is as important. That is precisely what Alexander Wang did representing Balenciaga on the red carpet with muse Kristen Wigg (woohhooo!! wat an unexpected… i almost expected Carey Mulligan). The ensemble that felt more Wang than Balenciaga, was a high-low hem black top with black pants. What was fun was Wang through his minimally chic n uber modern constructional sensibilities paid respect to Charles james in his own way. The top was immaculately constructed and while witholding the shape, it felt like someone had sliced through a ball gown. The slick back hair and smoky eyes gave miss wigg a polished and edgy look, far removed from her comic demeanor.. Love
Blowing everyone out of water was model Karolina Kurkova in a blue Marchesa gown. The impeccably constructed gown followed the theme to a T with classic American 50’s flair with a modern twist to it. Featuring painted flowers with some of them going 3d, the layered gown with its petal shapes took floral inspiration from James.. It could have easily drowned miss Kurkova, but the supermodel shows you why she is one of the best in the business. Accessorizing with just the neck piece, this was poetic construction.
Bringing high street to high fashion was Anne Hathaway in Calvin Klein. The crop top has made quite the appearance in the high street circles and bring that trend with her A game without any doubts was Miss Hathaway in a two piece column ensemble in red at the MET gala. The crop top bared just enough midriff without it being too much. She played up tonal color block with ruby red shoes and a hexagon ruby red clutch. She finished off with her dark pixie hair side swept and dangling earrings perfectly framing her face. Delicate and fierce at the same time.
Olsen twins, one in vintage Chanel, other in military inspired vintage Ferre, cut quite the modern picture on the red carpet. Androgynous in their approach of gowns, both the sisters had pulled back their hair for some serious fashion to the red carpet. In their gowns they looked smart, chic, no nonsense young women. The young entrepreneurs each one accessorized it minimally but differently. While one had a neckpiece with her wide collar pinstripe Chanel gown, other one had just pearl earrings with her gown.
Hailee Steinfeld literally grew this night and how!! In a Prabal Gurung black and white gown, the young starlet looked all grown up woman from the last time I saw her in Marchesa at Oscars. Prabal Gurung with his gown spun a young modern take on the gown, while paying homage to the designer in exhibition. The racer back top part combined with the whole skirt with high low hem tease to show off her shoes was a brilliant move. Choosing black and white, his muse worked that gown hitting the ball out the park every minute. With her hair, middle parted and in a chignon she finished the look with Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery. It was young, hip, sporty and classic all at the same time.
Zac Posen was quite the popular designer apart from Oscar dela Renta on the Red Carpet, possibly because of his constructions hitting quite close to Charles James. Maggie Q was no different opting for the gown from the young designer. What made Maggie Q stand out was the choice of her gown, along with the way she carried it lending a certain aristocratic air to the whole look. The black gown that featured extensions around hip, that extended downward, was styled minimally with a severe parted hair bun, smoky eyes and minimal jewels. Full points to nailing the look.
The co-chair herself,Sarah Jessica Parker graced the occasion in an Oscar dela Renta gown, complete with gloves and an updo for the night. The designer took a leaf from Charles James book and recreated the whole look, however addeded in a checkered back panel with his signature, lending a contemporary light hearted take on the look. The petal gown in ivory and black was as classy evening wear as it would go. I love how Miss Parker goes all the way into the theme every year and comes out trumps without taking herself too seriously. The double beehive with flowers completed the whole look.
Was literally torn between Zoe Saldana and Anna Kendrick for this last spot, but then again, who’s gonna kill me for including both.. no one. Marc Jacob’s date Zoe Saldana made a statement with a black and white halter with a plunging neckline. The lower part of the gown flared into a controlled bubble which could have gone either way but thanks to the designer it doesn’t. Credit to Ms Saldana for keeping the makeup contemporary without needing a pop of color. The berry lips and bronzed makeup were minimally perfect. Anna Kendrick on the other hand in J. Mendel cut the pretty constructed picture in a black and white gown with a cut out. Not as dramatic as others, but the gown with its slick construction of bustier with a peek a boo of the mid riff was just enough for her to score major points going the modern classic way. Accessorizing with just diamond studs and side parted hair, this woman definitely turned heads that night.
Usually at MET the women tend to follow the theme set by the exhibition but this time around we did see some rebels. However the theme for the red carpet set by Anna Wintour set many men out there in a tizzy with WHITE TIE & DECORATIONS. Stepping up their game, the men did not disappoint.
Wearing Tom Ford to the gala, Bradley Cooper followed the theme literally to the T. He had the Tailed coat, the white tie and vest, tailored pants… and women couldn’t get enough of him. He’s forgiven for the onyx, but would have preferred a much more polished look but its maybe his next movie’s look. Finished it off with white pocket square.
Even though his partner did not go the route, Jim Parsons went the whole way in his tux by Brooke Brothers. The white on white bowtie with shirt and vest and the tailcoat was complete in sync with the theme. What was fun was the floral lapel pin that both sported. Cute and quirtky.
Let’s just not even… Hawtness in a shot. Tom Ford in tom ford and Benedict Cumberbatch in Ralph Lauren.
*All images belong to their respective owners