It is that time of the year that we look back on the past year to see who made an impact on fashion, who set trends and who aced it in terms of costumes in movies in Bollywood. From fabulously styled to chameleon character looks transforming the actors, this year Bollywood dabbled in both regional and contemporary themes with its costumes within movies. From looking fab to getting down and dirty, the hindi movies explored it all in a range of movies. While there were many like Neerja and Dangal where the costume meshed so well with the character that you hardly notice it (the best thing a costume designer Read the rest of this entry »
Kicking things off on Day 1, Fashion Pakistan Week begun with the usual fervor with designers, Shehla Chatoor, Sania Maskatiya, Gulabo, Ayesha Hashwani, Tena Durrani, Hisham Malik and Sana Safinaz showcasing their luxury and high end collections.
As an ardent fan of knowing what the veteran designer Rizwan beyg is capable of, I was a rather bit disappointed in his presentation. The Digitruck, was an extension or rather a translation of his last collection. Having already done that brilliantly, it was a rather lacklustre opening to the last day.
Taking his last year’s collection forward, this year’s too featured a concoction of vibrant hues on fabric namely silks and surprisingly denim (the first…actually second time I saw digital print on such hard fabric) for men. The collection carried a seventies vibe with bell bottoms, flouncy silhouettes and some exaggerated shapes, were part of the whole presentation. The collection did not find any takers in me but there is no denying they were made well. The Digitruck was the extension..or rather translation of his last collection that he showcased at PFDC. The difference being the earlier one was handcrafted peel offs whereas this was digitally printed onto the fabric. Though it is difficult to manage the same vibrancy of the color when translating from images and scans, he does it, especially on denim. Because it was the same theme, the comparasions were inevitable. I definitely felt that the last one was much more superior to this one. I missed the bags, the shoes for men..
Obviously if it appears in any of the stores I would be the first one in line to buy these. However the big question that everyone was asking was instead of showcasing his collection at pfdc, this should have been the translation of his last collection for the stores where he stocks at. Because we know he is a genius and great at what he does, we wanted to see something new from the designer to see what is up his sleeve next. Also retail brands like Gulabo and Khaadi have already done and sold volumes of truck art themed womenswear so the question does arise how would his clothes fare in terms of Pakistani market or is the theme done and dusted with?? Or will people (like a small minority though like myself) flock to get one of the pieces of the collection?..though I have been told, he has incurred orders in various showings that he have had over destinations.
We want the genius Rizwan Back!! bass
Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly
The first thing that I asked Nida when I came out of the show.. Nida when will you not make NOT pretty… she laughed it off responding non chalantly ‘ I will NEVER make NOT PRETTY’ and rightly so. She has developed a signature her clientele abides by it and rather faithfully..even her quirky is pretty. Her take on Urban Jungle was possibly her best prêt presentation yet.
Graduating from Whites in her last collection, Nida Azwer’s this collection featured whites with tones of blush pinks, peaches, sepias and accenting them off with greys. Perfectly in line with summers she used cotton, nets, silks, chiffons and organzas in a variety of silhouettes that are pretty much on Nida’s home turf. Thank God there were no anarkalis this time around.. but from pretty saris, to flared floor length ensembles to skirts and separates with structured and layered tunics, the shapes were quintessentially the brand is known for. And now since she has her own stores, all of them and their trickle downs will make their way there. The understated but chic collection made use of sheer layering as well as
The prints botanical and animal prints were the major and the hightlight of the collection from which the titled Urban Jungle was drawn. The detailed and finely done prints were a testament of her expertise on the craft of it. Be it the silhouetted foliage, the botanical drawings, the zebras or the birds… Loved ‘Em..The prints combined with other techniques as well as embroideries in those tones came together for a calm, collected and chic collection. The collections were done in various compositions and done rather well with attention paid to detail. The printed collection employed many techniques like cutwork (which has now NIDA stamp onto it), and foil printing (Thank God not in the same amounts as the last collection) and hand embroidered embellishments to add certain dimension to the whole outfit.
The half and half one looked more like a half baked after thought of sorts since it looked a lil dated and considering the collection on such clean lines, it looked rather frumpy. Also I was on the fence with the hot pants under sheer skirts and maxi length dresses. Not the fact that the look was a bit 2012-ish, but while it did look good, at occasions looked like boxer shorts especially when with floor length maxi dresses. Possibly would have worked if the skirts would have been more delicate and streamlined than being bit voluminous. Minor gripes…minor gripes, they don’t take away from the fact that it was a good showing.
My picks.. the cutwork blouse Sari and the zebra printed border were my top two picks. The Sari had to be there. The cutwork blouse with its full sleeves was pretty, delicate and had an air of aristocracy specially how that sari was draped. The zebra border on the accented dip dye was the pretty but quirk… a hard but fun to find balance. Loved the robins amongst foliage prints on the sari. I also liked the first look with layered tunic with a silhouetted leaf print. The asymmetric tunic was another one that caught my eye with different prints and the printed layered pants, instead of a skirt or a tunic were fun.
*Images courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly
Maria B has always been commercial with a certain girlyness to the ensembles that sometimes did use to go overboard. However for her collection, the lady took a 180 degree turn to present a collection that was understated and possibly her best showing ever. This Kashmir ki Kali is definitely blossomed.
With an earthen and rustic colour palette, Inspired by Ladakh, Maria B took a an inspiring trip to Kashmir on the ramp through her presentation. The earthen palette featuring burnt oranges, dark teals, ochres, brown .. all in many patterns and embroideries made up for a relaxed and toned down showing. The pherans (its a kashmiri 3 panalled drop shoulder kurta) for men, the relaxed tunics, the layered printed upper jackets, printed pants (from cropped to extra flared), all of these made up her collection. The varying lengths of loose tunics and different treatment to each one kept it from being boring and were balanced with tights and pants. One could definitely see the Kashmiri influence (the drop shoulder, big sleeves) mixed with contemporary shapes to formulate these ensembles.
The culturally referenced patterns and embroidered motifs had many embroidery techniques that native to the place. Paisleys, florals, geometrics, chevrons as well as jewellery and text, all making an appearance on the ensembles, were also used to develop signature prints for the line. These were at points combined with solids and at other in a print on print look playing off each other in color and shape contrasts but yet aesthetically looking balanced. LOVED the printed tights. At one occasion she used sheer fabrics embroidered on top with print inners to play off the juxtapositions…wish she had explored a bit more of that too. Also what elicited whistles from me were the handwoven (or what looked like it) Pheran kurtas for men. The collection was restrained and looked like controlled wherever it had the potential to go overboard. A very prêt, very wearable collection, this will fly off the racks as soon as it hit the stores.. and with her retail presence, am sure it will.
A minor gripe was this look.. the geeky styling stood out from the rest of the mob. Also those pants really enhanced the hip and with a plain in the middle, were really not flattering to the shape. Also at occasions it did remind me of Khaadi (not khaadi khaas) but its the similar source material they usually work with.
What I liked.. the kurtas for men, the off shoulder printed tunic, the shape of this turquoise top was fun and the printed tights. Also loved the maroon kimono top and its pairing with cropped pants and the printed jumpsuit.
*Images Courtesy Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly